Ingubo evame ukusetshenziswaindwangu yokwelukayi-look ngesimo se-shuttle, lapho intambo yakhiwa khona nge-staggered ye-longitude kanye ne-latitude. Inhlangano yayo ngokuvamile inezigaba ezintathu ze-flat, twill kanye ne-satin, kanye nenhlangano yazo eshintshashintshayo (ezikhathini zanamuhla, ngenxa yokusetshenziswa kwe-shuttle-free loom, ukuluka kwezindwangu ezinjalo akusebenzisi uhlobo lwe-shuttle, kodwa indwangu isalokhu iwukuluka kwe-shuttle). Kusukela engxenyeni yendwangu yekotini, indwangu yesilika, indwangu yoboya, indwangu yelineni, indwangu ye-chemical fiber kanye nezindwangu zazo ezihlanganisiwe nezilukiwe, ukusetshenziswa kwezindwangu ezilukiwe ezingutsheni kungakhathaliseki ukuthi zihlukahlukene noma zisezingeni lokukhiqiza. Ngenxa yokwehluka kwesitayela, ubuchwepheshe, isitayela nezinye izici, kunokwehluka okukhulu enkambisweni yokucubungula kanye nezindlela zenqubo. Okulandelayo ulwazi oluyisisekelo lokucubungula izingubo ezilukiwe ezijwayelekile.
(1) Inqubo yokukhiqiza izingubo ezilukiwe
Izinto ezisetshenziswayo zifakwe kubuchwepheshe bokuhlola basefektri, inkinobho yokusika nokuthunga ye-keyhole, uku-ayina isitoreji sokuhlola izingubo noma ukuthunyelwa.
Ngemva kokuba indwangu ingene efektri, inani lenani kanye nokubukeka kanye nekhwalithi yangaphakathi kufanele kuhlolwe. Kuphela uma zihlangabezana nezidingo zokukhiqiza lapho zingase ziqale ukusebenza khona. Ngaphambi kokukhiqizwa ngobuningi, kufanele kwenziwe amalungiselelo obuchwepheshe kuqala, okuhlanganisa ukwakheka kweshidi lenqubo, ipuleti lesampula kanye nokukhiqizwa kwezingubo zesampula. Ingubo yesampula ingangena enkambisweni elandelayo yokukhiqiza kuphela ngemva kokuqinisekiswa yikhasimende. Izindwangu ziyasikwa futhi zithungwe zibe imikhiqizo eqediwe kancane. Ngemva kokuba ezinye izindwangu zokuthutha zenziwe imikhiqizo eqediwe kancane, ngokwezidingo zenqubo ekhethekile, kumele zihlungwe futhi zicutshungulwe, njengokuwasha izingubo, ukuwasha isihlabathi sezingubo, ukucutshungulwa komphumela wokusonta, njll., futhi ekugcineni, ngenqubo yokusiza kanye nenqubo yokuqeda, bese zipakishwa futhi zigcinwe ngemva kokudlula ukuhlolwa.
(2) Inhloso kanye nezidingo zokuhlolwa kwendwangu
Ikhwalithi yezindwangu ezinhle iyingxenye ebalulekile yokulawula ikhwalithi yemikhiqizo eqediwe. Ukuhlolwa nokunqunywa kwendwangu engenayo kungathuthukisa ngempumelelo izinga lekhwalithi yezingubo.
Ukuhlolwa kwendwangu kuhlanganisa kokubili ikhwalithi yokubukeka kanye nekhwalithi yangaphakathi. Ukubukeka okuyinhloko kwendwangu ukuthi ngabe kukhona umonakalo, amabala, amaphutha okuluka, umehluko wemibala nokunye. Indwangu yokuwasha isihlabathi kufanele futhi inake ukuthi ngabe kukhona yini amaphutha esihlabathi, uphawu olugoqekile, imifantu kanye nezinye izinkinga zokuwasha isihlabathi. Amaphutha athinta ukubukeka kufanele amakwe ngamamaki ekuhlolweni futhi agwenywe lapho kusikwa.
Ikhwalithi yangaphakathi yendwangu ihlanganisa ikakhulukazi ukushwabana, ukushesha kombala kanye nesisindo (m, ounce) okuqukethwe okuthathu. Ngesikhathi sokuhlolwa kwesampula, amasampula amele izinhlobo ezahlukene nemibala ehlukene kufanele asikwe ukuze kuhlolwe ukuqinisekisa ukunemba kwedatha.
Ngesikhathi esifanayo, izinto ezisizayo ezingena efektri kufanele nazo zihlolwe, njengezinga lokuncibilika kwebhande elinwebekayo, ukushesha kokunamathela kwendwangu yokunamathela, izinga lokushelela kwe-zipper, njll. Izinto ezisizayo ezingahlangabezani nezidingo ngeke zisetshenziswe.
(3) Umsebenzi oyinhloko wokulungiselela ubuchwepheshe
Ngaphambi kokukhiqizwa ngobuningi, abasebenzi bezobuchwepheshe kufanele baqale benze umsebenzi omuhle wokulungiselela ubuchwepheshe ngaphambi kokukhiqizwa ngobuningi. Ukulungiselela ubuchwepheshe kuhlanganisa okuqukethwe okuthathu: ishidi lenqubo, ukwenza amasampula ephepha kanye nokwenza amasampula ezingubo. Ukulungiselela ubuchwepheshe kuyindlela ebalulekile yokuqinisekisa ukukhiqizwa ngobuningi okubushelelezi kanye nomkhiqizo wokugcina ukuze kuhlangatshezwane nezidingo zamakhasimende.
Ishidi lenqubo liyidokhumenti eliqondisayo ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo. Libeka phambili izidingo ezinemininingwane mayelana nemininingwane, ukuthunga, uku-ayina, ukuqeda kanye nokupakisha, njll., futhi licacisa imininingwane efana nokuhlanganiswa kwezesekeli zezingubo kanye nobuningi bezindlela zokuthunga, bheka Ithebula 1-1. Zonke izinqubo ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo kufanele zenziwe ngokuqinile ngokwezidingo zeshidi lenqubo.
Ukukhiqizwa kwesampula kudinga usayizi onembile kanye nemininingwane ephelele. Imigqa ye-contour yezingxenye ezifanele ihambisana kahle. Inombolo yezingubo, ingxenye, imininingwane, isiqondiso sezingidi zesilika kanye nezidingo zekhwalithi kufanele kumakwe kusampula, futhi uphawu lwesampula oluhlanganisiwe kufanele lugxivizwe endaweni efanele yokuxhuma.
Ngemva kokuqedwa kweshidi lenqubo kanye nokwakheka kwesampula, kungenziwa ukukhiqizwa kwezingubo ezincane zesampula, futhi ukungafani kungalungiswa ngesikhathi ngokuya ngezidingo zamakhasimende kanye nenqubo, futhi ubunzima benqubo bungaxazululwa, ukuze ukusebenza kokugeleza kobuningi kuqhutshwe kahle. Isampula isibe ngesinye sezisekelo ezibalulekile zokuhlola ngemuva kwekhasimende.
(4) Izidingo zenqubo yokusika
Ngaphambi kokusika, kufanele sidwebe umdwebo wokukhipha ishaja ngokwesampula. “Okuphelele, okunengqondo nokugcina imali” yisimiso esiyisisekelo sokukhipha ishaja. Izidingo eziyinhloko zenqubo yokusika yilezi ezilandelayo:
(1) Sula inani ngesikhathi sokudonsa, bese uqaphela ukugwema amaphutha.
(2) Ukuze kube namaqoqo ahlukene ezindwangu ezidaywe noma ezihlanziwe ngesihlabathi, kufanele zisikwe ngamaqoqo ukuze kuvinjelwe ukuhlukahluka kombala ezingutsheni ezifanayo. Ukuze kube khona umehluko wombala endwanguni, umehluko wombala ukhishwe.
(3) Uma ukhipha izinto, qaphela ukuthi imicu yesilika yendwangu kanye nendlela imicu yengubo eqondiswa ngayo iyahlangabezana yini nezidingo zenqubo. Ngendwangu yevelvet (njengevelvet, ivelvet, i-corduroy, njll.), izinto akufanele zikhishwe zibuyele emuva, ngaphandle kwalokho ukujula kombala wezingubo kuzothinteka.
(4) Ngendwangu ethambile, kufanele sinake ukuhambisana kanye nokubekwa kwezinsimbi zokubopha kungqimba ngayinye, ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuhambisana kanye nokulingana kwezinsimbi zokubopha ezingutsheni.
(5) Ukusika kudinga ukusika okunembile, kanye nemigqa eqondile nebushelelezi. Umgwaqo akufanele ube mkhulu kakhulu, futhi izendlalelo ezingaphezulu nezingezansi zendwangu azinqunywanga ngokweqile.
(6) Sika ummese ngokwesimboli sophawu.
(7) Kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi kungathinti ukubukeka kwengubo lapho kusetshenziswa uphawu lwembobo yekhoni. Ngemva kokusika, inani kanye nokuhlolwa kwethebhulethi kufanele kubalwe, bese kuhlanganiswa ngokwezincazelo zezingubo, kanye nenombolo yokuvuma ithikithi, izingxenye kanye nezincazelo ezinamathiselwe.
(5) Ukuthunga nokuthunga kuyinqubo eyinhlokoukucutshungulwa kwezinguboUkuthunga izingubo kungahlukaniswa ngokuthunga ngomshini kanye nokuthunga ngesandla ngokwesitayela kanye nesitayela sobuciko. Enqubweni yokuthunga nokucubungula yokuqaliswa kokuhamba komsebenzi.
Ukusetshenziswa kwendwangu yokunamathela ekucubungulweni kwezingubo kuvame kakhulu, indima yayo ukwenza inqubo yokuthunga ibe lula, ukwenza ikhwalithi yezingubo ifane, ukuvimbela ukuguquka kanye nokushwabana, nokudlala indima ethile ekubunjweni kwezingubo. Izinhlobo zayo zezindwangu ezingalukiwe, izindwangu ezilukiwe, izingubo ezithungiwe njengendwangu eyisisekelo, ukusetshenziswa kwendwangu yokunamathela kufanele kukhethwe ngokwendwangu yezingubo nezingxenye, futhi kuqondwe ngokunembile isikhathi, izinga lokushisa kanye nengcindezi, ukuze kutholakale imiphumela engcono.
Ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo ezilukiwe, izithungo zixhunywa ngokomthetho othile ukuze kwakheke intambo eqinile nenhle.
Umkhondo ungafingqwa ngezinhlobo ezine ezilandelayo:
1. Umzila wezintambo zeketanga Umzila wezintambo weketanga wenziwe nge-suture eyodwa noma ezimbili. I-suture eyodwa. Inzuzo yayo ukuthi inani lemigqa esetshenziswa kubude beyunithi lincane, kodwa ububi ukuthi ukukhululwa kwe-edge lock kuzokwenzeka lapho umugqa weketanga uphukile. Intambo ye-suture ephindwe kabili ibizwa ngokuthi i-double chain seam, eyenziwe ngentambo yenaliti ne-hook, ukuqina kwayo namandla ayo kungcono kunentambo yokukhiya, futhi akulula ukuyihlakaza ngesikhathi esisodwa. Umzila wezintambo zeketanga elilodwa uvame ukusetshenziswa emphethweni wejazi, umthungo webhulukwe, ikhanda lejazi lesudi, njll. Umzila wezintambo zeketanga ezimbili uvame ukusetshenziswa kumthungo womphetho womthungo, umthungo wangemuva kanye nomthungo ohlangothini lwebhulukwe, ibhande elinwebekayo nezinye izingxenye ezinamandla amakhulu.
2. Umkhondo womugqa wokukhiya, owaziwa nangokuthi umkhondo wokuthunga we-shuttle, uxhunyaniswe yizithungo ezimbili emthungweni. Iziphetho ezimbili zomthungo zinesimo esifanayo, futhi ukwelula nokuqina kwawo akukuhle, kodwa umthungo ongaphezulu nongaphansi useduze. Umkhondo wokuthunga we-lock oqondile uwumkhondo ovame kakhulu wokuthunga, ovame ukusetshenziselwa ukuthungwa kwezingcezu ezimbili zezinto zokuthunga. Njengomphetho wokuthunga, ukuthunga okonga, ukufaka izikhwama njalo njalo.
3. Umkhondo we-suture wokugoqa uyintambo ebekwe emaphethelweni omthungo ngochungechunge lwe-sutures. Ngokwenani lemizila ye-suture (umthungo owodwa we-suture, umthungo ophindwe kabili we-suture… Umthungo wokugoqa umthungo oyisithupha). Isici sayo ukwenza umphetho wezinto zokuthunga ugoqwe, udlale indima yokuvimbela umphetho wendwangu. Lapho umthungo weluliwe, kungaba khona izinga elithile lokudluliselwa phakathi komugqa wobuso nomugqa ongezansi, ngakho-ke ukuqina komthungo kungcono, ngakho-ke kusetshenziswa kabanzi emphethoni wendwangu. Imithungo yezintambo ezintathu nezintambo ezine yizingubo ezilukiwe ezisetshenziswa kakhulu. Imithungo yezintambo ezinhlanu nemigqa eyisithupha, eyaziwa nangokuthi “imithungo ehlanganisiwe”, yakhiwe umthungo wemigqa emibili onemithungo yezintambo ezintathu noma ezine. Isici sayo esikhulu amandla amakhulu, angahlanganiswa futhi asongwe ngesikhathi esisodwa, ukuze kuthuthukiswe ubuningi bemithungo yokuthunga kanye nokusebenza kahle kokukhiqiza kokuthunga.
4. Umkhondo we-suture wenziwe ngezinaliti ezingaphezu kwezimbili kanye nentambo ye-hook egobile phakathi komunye nomunye, futhi ngezinye izikhathi kunezelwa intambo eyodwa noma ezimbili zokuhlobisa ngaphambili. Izici zomkhondo we-suture ziqinile, zithambile kahle, zibushelelezi, kwezinye izikhathi (njengokuthunga umthungo) nazo zingadlala indima ekuvimbeleni unqenqema lwendwangu.
Indlela yokuthunga okuyisisekelo iboniswe kuMfanekiso 1-13. Ngaphezu kokuthunga okuyisisekelo, kunezindlela zokucubungula ezifana nokugoqa kanye nokuthunga indwangu ngokwezidingo zesitayela nobuchwepheshe. Ukukhetha inaliti, intambo kanye nobuningi benaliti ekuthungeni izingubo ezilukiwe kufanele kucabangele izidingo zokuthungwa kwendwangu yengubo kanye nenqubo.
Izinaliti zingahlukaniswa “ngohlobo nenombolo”. Ngokusho kwesimo, izitishi zingahlukaniswa zibe uhlobo lwe-S, J, B, U, Y, oluhambisana nezindwangu ezahlukene, kusetshenziswa uhlobo lwenaliti olufanele.
Ubukhulu bezithungo ezisetshenziswa eShayina buhlukaniswa ngenombolo, futhi izinga lokujiya liya ngokuya liba likhulu njengoba inani likhula. Izithungo ezisetshenziswa ekucubungulweni kwezingubo ngokuvamile zisukela ku-7 kuya ku-18, kanti izindwangu ezahlukene zezingubo zisebenzisa izithungo ezahlukene zokujiya okuhlukile.
Ngokuyisisekelo, ukukhethwa kwezithungo kufanele kube nokuthungwa nombala ofanayo nowendwangu yengubo (ikakhulukazi yokuklama ukuhlobisa). Izithungo ngokuvamile zifaka intambo kasilika, intambo kakotini, intambo kakotini/ye-polyester, intambo ye-polyester, njll. Lapho sikhetha izithungo, kufanele futhi sinake ikhwalithi yezithungo, njengokushesha kombala, ukushwabana, amandla okushesha njalo njalo. Izithungo ezijwayelekile kufanele zisetshenziswe kuzo zonke izindwangu.
Ubuningi bendlela yenaliti bubukhulu bonyawo lwenaliti, obuhlulelwa ngenani lemithungo engaphakathi kuka-3cm ebusweni bendwangu, futhi bungabonakaliswa ngenani lemigoqo yephini endwangu engu-3cm. Ubuningi obujwayelekile bendlela yenaliti ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo ezilukiwe.
Ukuthunga izingubo kudinga ukuhlanzeka nokuhle, akubonakali kufana, kugobile, kuvuza, kuthungwe ngendlela engafanele nezinye izinto. Ekuthungeni, kufanele sinake iphethini yokuhlanganisa, kanye nokulingana. I-suture kufanele ifane futhi iqonde, ibushelelezi futhi ibushelelezi; i-tangent yengubo icwebezela ngaphandle kwemibimbi nokugoqeka okuncane; i-suture isesimweni esihle, ngaphandle komugqa ophukile, umugqa ontantayo, futhi izingxenye ezibalulekile njengesihloko sekhola akufanele zixhunywe.
(6) isibopho sezinzipho sembobo yokhiye
Imbobo yokukhiya kanye ne-nail buckle ezingutsheni ngokuvamile kwenziwa ngomshini. I-eye buckle ihlukaniswe ibe yimbobo eyisicaba kanye nembobo yeso ngokwesimo sayo, eyaziwa kakhulu ngokuthi imbobo yokulala kanye nembobo yeso lejuba.
Amehlo aqondile asetshenziswa kabanzi kumahembe, iziketi, amabhulukwe kanye neminye imikhiqizo yezingubo ezincane.
Amehlo ePhoenix asetshenziswa kakhulu kumajakethi, amasudi kanye nezinye izindwangu ezijiyile esigabeni samajazi.
Imbobo yokukhiya kufanele inake amaphuzu alandelayo:
(1) Ukuthi indawo ye-cingulate ilungile yini.
(2) Ukuthi usayizi weso lenkinobho uyahambisana yini nosayizi kanye nobukhulu benkinobho.
(3) Ukuthi imbobo yenkinobho isikwe kahle yini.
(4) babe nendwangu yokwelula (ethambile) noma ethambile kakhulu, ukuze kucatshangelwe ukusetshenziswa kwembobo yokukhiya engqimbeni yangaphakathi yokuqinisa indwangu. Ukuthunga inkinobho kufanele kuhambisane nendawo ye-buttingpoint, ngaphandle kwalokho inkinobho ngeke ibangele ukuphambuka nokugoba kwendawo yenkinobho. Kufanele futhi kuqashelwe ukuthi inani namandla omugqa we-staple anele yini ukuvimbela inkinobho ukuthi iwele, nokuthi inani le-buckle engutsheni yendwangu ebanzi lanele yini.
Abantu abashisayo (abayisikhombisa) bavame ukusebenzisa “ukuthunga amaphuzu ayisikhombisa ashisayo” ukuze kulungiswe kahle ukushisa kuyinqubo ebalulekile ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo.
Kunemisebenzi emithathu eyinhloko yoku-ayina:
(1) Susa imibimbi yezingubo ngokuzifutha nangokuzi-ayina, bese ususa imifantu.
(2) Ngemva kokwelashwa kokwakheka okushisayo, yenza izingubo zibukeke ziyisicaba, zinezimpiko, futhi ziqondile.
(3) Sebenzisa amakhono oku-ayina “okubuyisa” kanye “nokudonsa” ukuze ushintshe ngokufanele ukushwabana kwefayibha kanye nobuningi kanye nesiqondiso senhlangano yendwangu yendwangu, umise ukuma kwezingubo okunezinhlangothi ezintathu, ukuze kuvumelane nezidingo zesimo somzimba womuntu kanye nesimo somsebenzi, ukuze izingubo zifeze injongo yokubukeka okuhle nokugqokwa okukhululekile.
Izinto ezine eziyisisekelo ezithinta uku-ayina kwendwangu yilezi: izinga lokushisa, umswakama, ingcindezi kanye nesikhathi. Izinga lokushisa loku-ayina yilona eliyinhloko elithinta umphumela woku-ayina. Ukuqonda izinga lokushisa loku-ayina kwezindwangu ezahlukahlukene kuyinkinga ebalulekile yokubopha. Izinga lokushisa loku-ayina liphansi kakhulu ukufinyelela umphumela woku-ayina; izinga lokushisa loku-ayina lizobangela umonakalo.
Izinga lokushisa loku-ayina lazo zonke izinhlobo zefayibha, ngisho nangesikhathi sokuxhumana, isivinini sokuhamba, ingcindezi yoku-ayina, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi imibhede, ukujiya kwemibhede kanye nomswakama kunezici ezahlukahlukene.
Lezi zenzakalo ezilandelayo kufanele zigwenywe lapho ku-ayinwa:
(1) I-Aurora kanye nokusha ebusweni bengubo.
(2) Ubuso bengubo bushiye amaqhubu amancane kanye nemibimbi kanye nezinye izinkinga ezishisayo.
(3) Kukhona ukuvuza kanye nezingxenye ezishisayo.
(8) Ukuhlolwa kwezingubo
Ukuhlolwa kwezingubo kufanele kudlule yonke inqubo yokucubungula yokusika, ukuthunga, ukufaka i-keyhole buckle, ukuqeda kanye noku-ayina. Ngaphambi kokupakisha nokugcina, imikhiqizo eqediwe kufanele ihlolwe ngokugcwele ukuqinisekisa ikhwalithi yemikhiqizo.
Okuqukethwe okuyinhloko kokuhlolwa komkhiqizo oqediwe kufaka phakathi:
(1) Ukuthi isitayela sifana yini nesampula yokuqinisekisa.
(2) Ukuthi usayizi kanye nezincazelo ziyahlangabezana yini nezidingo zeshidi lenqubo kanye nezingubo zesampula.
(3) Ukuthi i-suture ilungile yini, nokuthi ukuthunga kuyizingubo ezihlanzekile neziyisicaba.
(4) izingubo zendwangu eqoshiwe hlola ukuthi ngabe le ngubo ilungile yini.
(5) ukuthi indwangu yesilika ilungile yini, ukuthi azikho yini iziphambeko endwangu, ukuthi ikhona yini uwoyela.
(6) Ukuthi ngabe kukhona yini inkinga yokwehluka kombala ezingutsheni ezifanayo.
(7) Ukuthi uku-ayina kuhle yini.
(8) Ukuthi ulwelwesi olubophayo luqinile yini, nokuthi ngabe kukhona yini ukungena kweglue.
(9) Ukuthi ikhanda lentambo lilungisiwe yini.
(10) Ukuthi izesekeli zezingubo ziphelele yini.
(11) Ukuthi uphawu losayizi, uphawu lokuwasha kanye nophawu lokuhweba ezingutsheni kuyahambisana yini nokuqukethwe kwezimpahla zangempela, nokuthi indawo efanele yini.
(12) Ukuthi isimo sezingubo siphelele silungile yini.
(13) Ukuthi iphakheji iyahlangabezana yini nezidingo.
(9) Ukupakisha nokugcina
Ukupakishwa kwezingubo kungahlukaniswa kube izinhlobo ezimbili zokulenga nokupakisha, okuvame ukuhlukaniswa kube ukupakishwa kwangaphakathi kanye nokupakishwa kwangaphandle.
Ukupakisha kwangaphakathi kubhekisela entweni eyodwa noma ngaphezulu yezingubo esikhwameni senjoloba. Inombolo yokukhokha kanye nosayizi wezingubo kufanele kuhambisane nalezo ezimakwe esikhwameni senjoloba, futhi ukupakisha kufanele kube bushelelezi futhi kube kuhle. Ezinye izitayela ezikhethekile zezingubo kufanele zipakishwe ngendlela ekhethekile, njengezingubo ezisontekile ezipakishwa ngendlela yokusonta, ukuze kugcinwe isitayela sazo sesitayela.
Iphakheji yangaphandle ivame ukupakishwa emabhokisini, ngokwezidingo zamakhasimende noma imiyalelo yeshidi lenqubo. Ifomu lokupakisha ngokuvamile liyikhodi exubile enemibala exubile, ikhodi exubile enombala owodwa, ikhodi exubile enemibala exubile, ikhodi exubile enemibala exubile izinhlobo ezine. Lapho sipakisha, kufanele sinake inani eliphelele kanye nokuhlanganiswa kombala nosayizi okunembile. Shaya uphawu lwebhokisi ebhokisini elingaphandle, ubonise ikhasimende, ichweba lokuthumela, inombolo yebhokisi, inani, imvelaphi, njll., futhi okuqukethwe kuhambisana nezimpahla zangempela.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Meyi-25-2024
