Ingubo esetshenziswa kakhuluindwangu yokwelukaindwangu yokweluka indwangu esesimweni se-shuttle, lapho intambo yakheka khona ngokuntengantenga kwe-longitude ne-latitude. Inhlangano yayo ngokuvamile inezigaba ezintathu ze-flat, i-twill ne-satin, kanye nenhlangano yabo eguqukayo (ezikhathini zanamuhla, ngenxa yokusetshenziswa kwe-shuttle-free loom, ukuthungwa kwezindwangu ezinjalo akusebenzisi uhlobo lwe-shuttle, kodwa indwangu namanje i-shuttle weaving). Kusukela engxenyeni yendwangu kakotini, indwangu kasilika, indwangu yoboya, indwangu yelineni, indwangu ye-fiber yamakhemikhali kanye nezindwangu zabo ezihlanganisiwe nezilukiweyo, ukusetshenziswa kwezindwangu ezilukiweyo ezingutsheni kungakhathaliseki ukuthi zihlukahlukene noma zihola ubuningi bokukhiqiza. Ngenxa yomehluko wesitayela, ubuchwepheshe, isitayela nezinye izici, kunomehluko omkhulu enqubweni yokucubungula kanye nezindlela zenqubo. Okulandelayo ulwazi oluyisisekelo lokucubungula izingubo ezilukiwe ezijwayelekile.
(1) Inqubo yokukhiqiza izingubo ezilukiwe
Izinto ezisezingeni eliphezulu kubuchwepheshe bokuhlola imboni, inkinobho yokusika nokuthunga imbobo kakhiye, isitoreji sokuhlola impahla yoku-ayina noma ukuthunyelwa.
Ngemuva kokuthi indwangu ingene efektri, isibalo sobuningi kanye nokubukeka nekhwalithi yangaphakathi kufanele ihlolwe. Kuphela uma zihlangabezana nezidingo zokukhiqiza lapho zingakwazi khona ukusebenza. Ngaphambi kokukhiqiza ngobuningi, ukulungiswa kwezobuchwepheshe kufanele kwenziwe kuqala, okuhlanganisa ukwakhiwa kweshidi lenqubo, isampula yepuleti kanye nokukhiqizwa kwengubo yesampula. Isambatho sesampula singangena kunqubo elandelayo yokukhiqiza kuphela ngemva kokuqinisekiswa yikhasimende. Izindwangu ziyasikwa futhi zithungwe zibe yimikhiqizo eseqediwe. Ngemuva kokuthi ezinye izindwangu ze-shuttle zenziwe ngemikhiqizo eseqediwe, ngokwezidingo ezikhethekile zenqubo, kufanele zihlungwe futhi zicutshungulwe, njengokuwashwa kwezingubo, ukuwasha isihlabathi sengubo, ukucubungula umphumela wokusonta, njll., futhi ekugcineni, ngenqubo yokusiza futhi inqubo yokuqeda, bese ihlanganiswa futhi igcinwe ngemva kokuphumelela ukuhlolwa.
(2) Inhloso kanye nezidingo zokuhlolwa kwendwangu
Izinga lezindwangu ezinhle liyingxenye ebalulekile yokulawula ikhwalithi yemikhiqizo eqediwe. Ukuhlolwa nokuzimisela kwendwangu engenayo kungathuthukisa ngokuphumelelayo izinga lekhwalithi yezingubo.
Ukuhlolwa kwendwangu kuhlanganisa kokubili ikhwalithi yokubukeka kanye nekhwalithi yangaphakathi. Ukubukeka okuyinhloko kwendwangu kungakhathaliseki ukuthi kunomonakalo, amabala, amaphutha e-weaving, umehluko wombala nokunye. Indwangu yokugeza isihlabathi kufanele futhi inake ukuthi kukhona umgwaqo wesihlabathi, i-dead fold seal, i-crack nezinye iziphambeko zokuwasha isihlabathi. Amaphutha athinta ukubukeka kufanele amakwe ngamamaki ekuhlolweni futhi agwenywe lapho ukusika.
Ikhwalithi yangaphakathi yendwangu ikakhulukazi ihlanganisa ukuncipha, ukushesha kombala kanye nesisindo (m, i-ounce) okuqukethwe okuthathu. Ngesikhathi sokuhlolwa, amasampula amele izinhlobo ezahlukene nemibala ehlukene kufanele asikwe ukuze ahlolwe ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukunemba kwedatha.
Ngesikhathi esifanayo, izinto ezisizayo ezingena embonini kufanele futhi zihlolwe, njengezinga lokuncipha kwebhande elinwebekayo, ukushesha kokunamathela kwe-adhesive lining, izinga lokushelela kwe-zipper, njll. Izinto ezisizayo ezingakwazi ukuhlangabezana nezidingo. ngeke iqale ukusebenza.
(3) Ukuhamba komsebenzi okuyinhloko kokulungiswa kobuchwepheshe
Ngaphambi kokukhiqiza ngobuningi, abasebenzi bezobuchwepheshe kufanele baqale benze umsebenzi omuhle wokulungiselela ubuchwepheshe ngaphambi kokukhiqiza ngobuningi. Ukulungiswa kobuchwepheshe kuhlanganisa izinto ezintathu eziqukethwe: ishidi lenqubo, ukwenziwa kwesampula yephepha kanye nokwenza isampula kwezingubo. Ukulungiselela ubuchwepheshe kuyindlela ebalulekile yokuqinisekisa ukukhiqizwa kwenqwaba okushelelayo kanye nomkhiqizo wokugcina ukuhlangabezana nezidingo zamakhasimende.
Ishidi lenqubo liyidokhumenti eyisiqondisi ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo. Ibeka phambili izidingo ezinemininingwane mayelana nokucaciswa, ukuthunga, uku-ayina, ukuqedela nokupakisha, njll., futhi icacisa imininingwane efana nokuhlanganiswa kwezisekeli zezingubo kanye nokuminyana kwamathrekhi okuthunga, bheka Ithebula 1-1. Zonke izinqubo ekucutshungulweni kwengubo kufanele zenziwe ngokuqinile ngokuvumelana nezidingo zeshidi lenqubo.
Ukukhiqizwa kwesampula kudinga usayizi onembile kanye nokucaciswa okuphelele. Imigqa yamakhonkolo yezingxenye ezifanele iqondana ngokunembile. Inombolo yezingubo, ingxenye, ukucaciswa, indlela yezingidi zikasilika kanye nezidingo zekhwalithi kufanele zimakwe kwisampula, futhi uphawu oluhlanganisiwe lwesampula kufanele lugxivizwe endaweni efanele yokuhlanganisa.
Ngemuva kokuphothulwa kweshidi lenqubo kanye nokwakhiwa kwesampula, ukukhiqizwa kwezingubo zesampula ze-batch ezincane kungenziwa, futhi ukungezwani kungalungiswa ngesikhathi ngokuvumelana nezidingo zamakhasimende kanye nenqubo, futhi ubunzima benqubo bungaxazululwa, ukuthi ukusebenza kwe-mass flow kungenziwa ngokushelela. Isampula isibe ngesinye sezisekelo ezibalulekile zokuhlola ngemva kwekhasimende.
(4) Izidingo zenqubo yokusika
Ngaphambi kokusika, kufanele sidwebe umdwebo wokukhipha ngokusho kwesampula. "Kuphelele, kunengqondo futhi konga" umgomo oyisisekelo wokulahla. Izidingo eziyinhloko zenqubo enqubweni yokusika zimi kanje:
(1) Sula ubuningi endaweni yesikhathi sokudonsa, futhi unake ukuze ugweme amaphutha.
(2) Kumaqoqo ahlukene ezindwangu ezidayiwe noma eziwashwe ngesihlabathi kufanele zisikwe ngamaqoqo ukuze kuvinjelwe umehluko wombala engutsheni efanayo. Ukuze kube khona umehluko wombala endwangu kuya ekukhishweni kombala umehluko.
(3) Lapho ukhipha izinto zokwakha, qaphela ukuthi imicu kasilika yendwangu kanye nesiqondiso semicu yengubo iyahlangabezana yini nezidingo zenqubo. Ngendwangu ye-velvet (njenge-velvet, i-velvet, i-corduroy, njll.), izinto ezisetshenziswayo akufanele zikhishwe emuva, ngaphandle kwalokho ukujula kombala wezingubo kuzothinteka.
(4) Ngendwangu ye-plaid, kufanele sinake ukuqondana nokubekwa kwemigoqo kungqimba ngalunye, ukuze siqinisekise ukuhambisana nokulingana kwemigoqo engutsheni.
(5) Ukusika kudinga ukusika okunembile, nemigqa eqondile nebushelelezi. I-pavement akufanele ibe yinkimbinkimbi kakhulu, futhi izingqimba ezingenhla nezingezansi zendwangu azidluli.
(6) Sika ummese ngokophawu lwesampula.
(7) Kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi kungaphazamisi ukubukeka kwengubo uma kusetshenziswa uphawu lwembobo yekhoni. Ngemuva kokusika, inani kanye nokuhlolwa kwethebhulethi kufanele kubalwe, futhi kuhlanganiswe ngokuya ngemininingwane yezimpahla zokugqoka, nenombolo yokugunyaza ithikithi, izingxenye kanye nemininingwane enamathiselwe.
(5) Ukuthunga nokuthunga kuyinqubo emaphakathiukucubungula izingubo. Ukuthunga kwezingubo kungahlukaniswa ngokuthunga komshini kanye nokuthunga ngesandla ngokusho kwesitayela nesitayela sobuciko. Enqubweni yokuthunga nokucubungula ukuqaliswa kokugeleza kokusebenza.
Ukusetshenziswa kwe-adhesive lining ekucubunguleni izingubo kuvame kakhulu, indima yayo ukwenza lula inqubo yokuthunga, ukwenza umfaniswano wekhwalithi yezingubo, ukuvimbela ukuguquguquka nokushwabana, futhi udlale indima ethile ekufaniseni izingubo. Izinhlobo zayo zezindwangu ezingezona ezilukiwe, izindwangu ezilukiwe, i-knitwear njengendwangu eyisisekelo, ukusetshenziswa kwe-adhesive lining kufanele kukhethwe ngokwendwangu yezingubo kanye nezingxenye, futhi kubambe ngokunembile isikhathi, izinga lokushisa kanye nengcindezi, ukuze kuzuzwe imiphumela engcono. .
Ekucutshungulweni kwezingubo ezilukiwe, izithungo zixhunywe ngokomthetho othile ukuze zenze intambo eqinile futhi enhle.
Umkhondo ungafinyezwa ube yizinhlobo ezine ezilandelayo:
1. I-chain string trace Intambo yokulandela umkhondo yenziwa ngomthungo owodwa noma emibili. I-suture eyodwa. Inzuzo yayo ukuthi inani lemigqa elisetshenziswe kubude beyunithi lincane, kodwa okubi ukuthi ukukhululwa kwe-edge lock kuzokwenzeka lapho umugqa weketango uphukile. Intambo ye-double suture ibizwa ngokuthi i-double chain seam, eyenziwe ngentambo yomugqa wenaliti ne-hook, ukuqina kwayo namandla angcono kunentambo yokukhiya, futhi akulula ukuyihlakaza ngesikhathi esifanayo. I-single line chain trace ivame ukusetshenziswa kumphetho wejakhethi, umthungo webhulukwe, ijaji lejaji lesudi yekhanda, njll. Ukulandela umugqa weketango elinemigqa emibili kuvame ukusetshenziswa kumthungo wonqenqema lomthungo, umthungo ongemuva kanye nomthungo oseceleni webhulukwe, ibhande elinwebekayo kanye nezinye izingxenye ezinamandla ukwelula namandla aqinile.
2. I-trace yomugqa wokukhiya, owaziwa nangokuthi i-shuttle suture trace, ixhunywe ama-suture amabili emthungo. Iziphetho ezimbili ze-suture zinesimo esifanayo, futhi ukwelula nokunwebeka kwayo kumpofu, kodwa i-suture ephezulu nephansi iseduze. I-linear lock suture trace iwumkhondo ovame kakhulu we-suture suture trace, ovame ukusetshenziselwa ukuthunga kwezingcezu ezimbili zezinto zokuthunga. Okufana nokuthunga onqenqemeni, ukonga ukuthunga, izikhwama nokunye.
3. I-suture trace yokugoqa intambo ebekwe emaphethelweni omthungo ngochungechunge lwama-sutures.Ngokwenani lamathrekhi we-suture (umthungo we-suture eyodwa, umthungo we-suture ophindwe kabili… umthungo wokugoqa oyisithupha). Isici salo ukwenza umphetho wezinto zokuthunga uhlanganiswe, udlale indima yokuvimbela umkhawulo wendwangu. Lapho umthungo weluliwe, kungase kube nezinga elithile lokudlulisa okuhlangene phakathi komugqa ongaphezulu kanye nomugqa ophansi, ngakho-ke ukuqina komthungo kungcono, ngakho-ke kusetshenziswe kabanzi emaphethelweni endwangu. Imithungo enezintambo ezintathu nezintambo ezine yizingubo ezilukiwe ezisetshenziswa kakhulu. Izintambo ezinezintambo ezinhlanu kanye nemigqa eyisithupha, eyaziwa nangokuthi "amathrekhi ahlanganisiwe", akhiwe ngomugqa wemigqa emibili enemigqa emithathu noma enezintambo ezine. Isici sawo esikhulu kunazo zonke amandla amakhulu, angahlanganiswa futhi ahlanganiswe ngesikhathi esifanayo, ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukuminyana kwemikhondo yokuthunga kanye nokusebenza kahle kokukhiqiza kokuthunga.
4. I-suture trace yenziwe ngezinaliti ezingaphezu kwezimbili kanye nentambo ye-hook egobile komunye nomunye, futhi ngezinye izikhathi intambo eyodwa noma emibili yokuhlobisa yengezwa ngaphambili. Izici ze-suture trace ziqinile, ziqinile, zihamba kahle, i-seam ebushelelezi, kwezinye izikhathi (njengokuthunga umthungo) nazo zingadlala indima yokuvimbela umkhawulo wendwangu.
Indlela yokuthunga okuyisisekelo ikhonjiswe kuMfanekiso 1-13. Ngaphezu kokuthunga okuyisisekelo, kunezindlela zokucubungula ezifana nokugoqa nokufekethiswa kwendwangu ngokwezidingo zesitayela nobuchwepheshe. Ukukhethwa kwenaliti, intambo kanye nomthamo wethrekhi yenaliti ekuthungeni kwengubo elukiwe kufanele kucabangele izidingo zokuthungwa kwendwangu yengubo kanye nenqubo.
Izinaliti zingahlukaniswa ngokuthi "uhlobo nenombolo". Ngokusho komumo, ukuthungwa kungahlukaniswa ngohlobo lwe-S, J, B, U, Y, oluhambisana nezindwangu ezihlukene, ngokulandelana usebenzisa uhlobo lwenaliti olufanele.
Ubukhulu bemithungo esetshenziswa eShayina buhlukaniswa ngenombolo, futhi izinga lokujiya liya lishuba futhi libe likhulu ngokwanda kwenombolo. Imithungo esetshenziswa ekucubunguleni izingubo ngokuvamile isukela ku-7 kuye ku-18, futhi izindwangu zezingubo ezihlukene zisebenzisa imithungo ehlukene yogqinsi oluhlukene.
Ngokomthetho, ukukhethwa kwe-stitches kufanele kube ukuthungwa okufanayo nombala njengendwangu yengubo (ikakhulukazi umklamo wokuhlobisa). Ama-Sutures ngokuvamile ahlanganisa intambo kasilika, intambo kakotini, intambo kakotini / i-polyester, intambo ye-polyester, njll. Lapho sikhetha izitishi, kufanele futhi sinake izinga lokuthunga, njengokushesha kombala, ukushwabana, amandla okushesha nokunye. I-suture ejwayelekile izosetshenziswa kuzo zonke izindwangu.
Ukuminyana kwethrekhi yenaliti ukuminyana konyawo yenaliti, okwahlulelwa ngenani le-sutures ngaphakathi kwe-3cm ebusweni bendwangu, futhi ingavezwa ngenani lamaphinikhodi endwangu engu-3cm. Ukuminyana kwenaliti okujwayelekile ekucutshungulweni kwengubo elukiwe.
Ukuthunga izingubo ngokuphelele kudinga ukucoceka nokuhle, akukwazi ukuvela njenge-asymmetry, igwegwe, ukuvuza, i-seam engalungile nezinye izenzakalo. Ekuthungeni, kufanele sinake iphethini ye-splicing, kanye ne-symmetry. I-suture izoba yinto efanayo futhi iqonde, ibushelelezi futhi ibushelelezi; i-tangent yengubo yokugqoka iyisicaba ngaphandle kwemibimbi nokugoqa okuncane; i-suture isesimweni esihle, ngaphandle komugqa ophukile, umugqa ontantayo, futhi izingxenye ezibalulekile ezifana nethiphu yekholomu akufanele zifakwe intambo.
(6) imbobo kakhiye yezinzipho
Imbobo yokukhiya kanye nebhande lezinzipho ezingutsheni ngokuvamile zenziwe ngomshini. Imbobo yamehlo ihlukaniswe yaba imbobo eyisicaba kanye nembobo yamehlo ngokuya ngokuma kwayo, eyaziwa ngokuthi imbobo yokulala kanye nembobo yeso lejuba.
Amehlo aqondile asetshenziswa kakhulu kumahembe, iziketi, amabhulukwe neminye imikhiqizo yezimpahla zokugqoka ezincanyana.
Amehlo e-Phoenix asetshenziswa kakhulu kumajakhethi, amasudi nezinye izindwangu eziwugqinsi esigabeni sejazi.
Imbobo yokukhiya kufanele inake amaphuzu alandelayo:
(1) Ukuthi indawo ye-cingate ilungile yini.
(2) Ukuthi usayizi weso lenkinobho uyafaniswa nosayizi nokujiya kwenkinobho.
(3) Ukuthi ukuvuleka kwenkinobho kusikwe kahle yini.
(4) ube ne-stretch (elastic) noma impahla yokugqoka emincane kakhulu, ukucabangela ukusetshenziswa kwembobo yokukhiya engxenyeni yangaphakathi yokuqinisa indwangu. Ukuthunga kwenkinobho kufanele kuhambisane nendawo ye-buttingpoint, ngaphandle kwalokho inkinobho ngeke ibangele ukuhlanekezela kanye ne-skew yendawo yenkinobho. Ukunakwa kufanele futhi kukhokhwe ukuthi inani namandla omugqa wesisekelo kwanele yini ukuvimbela inkinobho ukuthi ingawi, nokuthi inani lebhande eligqoke izingubo eziwugqinsi lanele yini.
(Abayisikhombisa) abantu abashisayo bavame ukusebenzisa "amaphuzu amathathu athunga amaphuzu ayisikhombisa ashisayo" ukulungisa okunamandla ukushisa kuyinqubo ebalulekile ekucubunguleni izingubo.
Kunemisebenzi emithathu eyinhloko yoku-ayina:
(1) Khipha imibimbi yezingubo ngokufafaza noku-ayina, futhi wenze imifantu ibe yisicaba.
(2) Ngemuva kokwelashwa kokubumba okushisayo, yenza ukubukeka kwezingubo kube flat, pleated, imigqa eqondile.
(3) Sebenzisa amakhono oku-ayina “wokubuyisela” kanye “nokudonsa” ukuze uguqule ngokufanelekile ukushwabana kwefayibha kanye nokuminyana nokuqondiswa kwenhlangano yendwangu yendwangu, ulolonge ukwakheka kwezingubo ezinezinhlangothi ezintathu, ukuze zivumelane nezimfuneko zomzimba womuntu. isimo kanye nesimo somsebenzi, ukuze izingubo zifinyelele inhloso yokubukeka okuhle nokugqoka okukhululekile.
Izakhi ezine eziyisisekelo ezithinta uku-ayina kwendwangu yilezi: izinga lokushisa, umswakama, ingcindezi kanye nesikhathi. Izinga lokushisa loku-ayina liyisici esiyinhloko esithinta umphumela woku-ayina. Ukubamba izinga lokushisa le-ironing lezindwangu ezihlukahlukene kuyinkinga eyinhloko yokugqoka. Izinga lokushisa loku-ayina liphansi kakhulu ukuze lifinyelele umphumela woku-ayina; izinga lokushisa loku-ayina lizodala umonakalo.
Izinga lokushisa loku-ayina lazo zonke izinhlobo zefiber, ngisho nangesikhathi sokuxhumana, isivinini esinyakazayo, ingcindezi yoku-ayina, noma ngabe okokulala, ukushuba kwemibhede kanye nomswakama kunezici ezihlukahlukene.
Lezi zinto ezilandelayo kufanele zigwenywe eku-ayineni:
(1) I-Aurora nokuvutha ebusweni bengubo.
(2) Ingaphezulu lezingubo lishiye ama-ripples amancane kanye nemibimbi kanye nezinye izici ezishisayo.
(3) Kukhona ukuvuza nezingxenye ezishisayo.
(8) Ukuhlolwa kwezingubo
Ukuhlolwa kwezingubo zokugqoka kufanele kuqhubeke kuyo yonke inqubo yokucutshungulwa kokusika, ukuthunga, ibhande lembobo kakhiye, ukuqedela noku-ayina. Ngaphambi kokupakishwa nokugcinwa, imikhiqizo eqediwe kufanele futhi ihlolwe ngokugcwele ukuze kuqinisekiswe ikhwalithi yemikhiqizo.
Okuqukethwe okuyinhloko kokuhlolwa komkhiqizo oqediwe kufaka phakathi:
(1) Ukuthi isitayela siyefana yini nesampula yokuqinisekisa.
(2) Ukuthi usayizi kanye nokucaciswa kuyahlangabezana yini nezidingo zeshidi lenqubo kanye nesambatho sesampula sokugqoka.
(3) Ukuthi i-suture ilungile yini, nokuthi ukuthunga kuyizingubo ezihlanzekile neziyisicaba.
(4) izingubo zendwangu ehlutshiwe hlola ukuthi ingabe ipheya ilungile yini.
(5) ukuthi i-wisp yendwangu kasilika ilungile yini, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi awekho amaphutha endwangu, akhona amafutha.
(6) Ukuthi kunenkinga yokuhluka kombala engutsheni efanayo.
(7) Ukuthi uku-ayina kuhle yini.
(8) Ukuthi ulwelwesi oluyisibopho luqinile, nokuthi kukhona yini into yokungena yeglue.
(9) Ukuthi ikhanda locingo selilungisiwe yini.
(10) Ukuthi izesekeli zezingubo ziphelele yini.
(11) Ukuthi usayizi wophawu, uphawu lokuwasha kanye nophawu lwentengiso engutsheni kuyahambisana nokuqukethwe kwezimpahla zangempela, kanye nokuthi indawo ilungile yini.
(12) Ukuthi umumo wempahla uphelele yini.
(13) Ukuthi iphakheji iyahlangabezana yini nezimfuneko.
(9) Ukupakisha nokugcina
Ukupakishwa kwezingubo kungahlukaniswa ngezinhlobo ezimbili zokulenga nokupakisha, okuvame ukuhlukaniswa kube ukupakisha kwangaphakathi kanye nokupakisha kwangaphandle.
Ukupakishwa kwangaphakathi kusho ingubo eyodwa noma ngaphezulu esikhwameni senjoloba. Inombolo yokukhokha kanye nosayizi wezingubo kufanele zihambisane nalezo ezimakwe esikhwameni senjoloba, futhi ukupakishwa kufanele kube bushelelezi futhi kube kuhle. Ezinye izitayela ezikhethekile zokugqoka kufanele zihlanganiswe ngokuphathwa okukhethekile, njengezingubo ezisontekile ezizopakishwa ngendlela ye-wrung, ukuze kugcinwe isitayela sayo sesitayela.
Iphakethe langaphandle livamise ukupakishwa emakhathoni, ngokuya ngezidingo zekhasimende noma imiyalelo yeshidi lenqubo. Ifomu lokupakisha ngokuvamile liyikhodi exubile yombala oxubile, ikhodi yombala owodwa ozimele, ikhodi exutshwe ngombala owodwa, ikhodi yombala oxubile ozimele izinhlobo ezine. Lapho sipakisha, kufanele sinake ubuningi obuphelele kanye nombala onembile nosayizi wokuhlanganisa. Gcoba uphawu lwebhokisi ebhokisini elingaphandle, ubonise ikhasimende, imbobo yokuthumela, inombolo yebhokisi, inani, umsuka, njll., futhi okuqukethwe kuhambisana nezimpahla zangempela.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: May-25-2024
