Ileyisikuyinto ebalulekile. Izicubu ezine-mesh, ezilukwe ngesandla kuqala ngokuthungwa. Abantu baseYurophu nabaseMelika basebenzisa izingubo eziningi zabesifazane, ikakhulukazi ezingutsheni zakusihlwa kanye nezingubo zomshado. Ngekhulu le-18, izinkantolo zaseYurophu namadoda ahloniphekile nawo ayesetshenziswa kakhulu ezimpahleni, eziketini zekhola, kanye nasemasokisini.
Umsuka weleyisi
Isakhiwo se-lace esimise okwembali asizange sitholakale ngokuluka noma ngokuluka, kodwa ngokusonta intambo. EYurophu ngekhulu le-16 nele-17, ukusetshenziswa kwezintambo ze-lace ezisebenzisa intambo kwaba umthombo wemali kubantu abangochwepheshe kanye nendlela yabesifazane abadumile yokuchitha isikhathi sabo. Ngaleso sikhathi, isidingo senhlalo se-lace sasisikhulu kakhulu, okwakwenza izisebenzi ze-lace zisebenze zikhathele kakhulu. Babevame ukusebenza engaphansi komhlaba okukhuntile, futhi ukukhanya kwakungaqinile, ngakho babebona kuphela amasondo ajikelezayo.
Njengoba uJohn Heathcoat asungula i-lace loom (eyayinelungelo lobunikazi ngo-1809), ukukhiqizwa kwe-lace yaseBrithani kwangena enkathini yezimboni, lo mshini ungakhiqiza isisekelo se-lace esinobunye obuhle kakhulu nesijwayelekile. Abadwebi badinga kuphela ukuluka ihluzo kuwebhu, okuvame ukwenziwa ngesilika. Eminyakeni embalwa kamuva, uJohn Leavers wasungula umshini owasebenzisa isimiso se-French jacquard loom ukukhiqiza amaphethini e-lace kanye ne-lace mesh, futhi lokho kwasungula nesiko le-lace eNottingham. Umshini weLeavers uyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu, wakhiwe izingxenye ezingu-40000 kanye nezinhlobo ezingu-50000 zemigqa, udinga ukusebenza ngezindlela ezahlukene.
Namuhla, ezinye izinkampani ze-lace ezisezingeni eliphezulu zisasebenzisa imishini ye-Leavers. UKarl Mayer wethule imishini yokuthunga i-warp efana ne-Jacquardtronic kanye ne-Textronic ukukhiqiza i-lace ye-leavers, kodwa engabizi kakhulu, ilula futhi ilula.
Intambo yengubo yeleyisi efana ne-rayon, i-nylon, i-polyester kanye ne-spandex nayo iyashintsha uhlobo lweleyisi, kodwa ikhwalithi yentambo esetshenziselwa ukukhiqiza ileyisi kumele ibe yinhle kakhulu, inenani eliphakeme lokusonta kunentambo esetshenziselwa ukuluka noma ukuluka.
Izithako kanye nokuhlukaniswa kwe-lace
I-lace isebenzisa i-nylon, i-polyester, ukotini kanye ne-rayon njengezinto zokusetshenziswa eziyinhloko. Uma kunezelwa nge-spandex noma i-elastic silk, ukuqina kungatholakala.
Inayiloni (noma i-polyester) + i-spandex: intambo evamile yokunwebeka.
Inayiloni + i-polyester + (spandex): ingenziwa ibe yi-lace enemibala emibili, eyenziwe ngemibala ehlukene yokudaya i-brocade kanye ne-polyester.
I-polyester egcwele (noma i-nylon egcwele): ingahlukaniswa ibe yi-filament eyodwa kanye ne-filament, esetshenziswa kakhulu engutsheni yomshado; i-filament ingalingisa umphumela wekotini.
Inayiloni (i-polyester) + ukotini: kungenziwa kube nombala ohlukile.
Ngokuvamile, i-lace emakethe ivame ukuhlukaniswa nge-lace ye-fiber yamakhemikhali, i-lace yendwangu kakotini, i-lace yentambo kakotini, i-lace yokuhlobisa kanye ne-lace encibilika emanzini kulezi zigaba ezinhlanu. I-lace ngayinye inezici zayo, futhi inezinzuzo nezinkinga ezahlukene.
Amandla nobuthakathaka beLace
1, i-lace ye-fiber yamakhemikhali uhlobo oluvame kakhulu lwezindwangu ze-lace, izinto ezisekelwe ku-nylon, i-spandex. Ukuthungwa kwayo ngokuvamile kuncane kakhulu, futhi kunzima kakhulu, uma ukuxhumana ngqo nesikhumba kungase kuzwakale kuhlaba kancane. Kodwa izinzuzo ze-fiber yamakhemikhali i-lace ziyizindleko ezishibhile, amaphethini amaningi, imibala eminingi, futhi akulula ukuyiphula. Ububi be-fiber yamakhemikhali i-lace ukuthi ayilungile, abantu be-zha, hhayi uku-ayina okushisa okuphezulu, ngokuyisisekelo akukho ukunwebeka, ayikwazi ukugqokwa njengezingubo zomuntu siqu. Futhi ngokuvamile, ngenxa yezindleko ze-fiber yamakhemikhali, ivame ukusetshenziswa ezingutsheni ezishibhile, ngakho-ke izonikeza abantu uhlobo "lomuzwa oshibhile".
2. I-cotton lace ngokuvamile uhlobo lwe-lace olwenziwe ngentambo yekotoni odongeni lwekotini, bese lusika ingxenye engenalutho yendwangu yekotini. I-cotton lace nayo iwuhlobo oluvamile, ingabonakala ezingutsheni eziningi, ukuqina kwayo kufana kakhulu nendwangu yekotini. Izinzuzo ze-cotton lace zibiza kancane, akulula ukuyiphula, ingacindezelwa ekushiseni okuphezulu, izwakale kahle. Kodwa ububi be-cotton lace kulula ukuyishwabanisa, inesimo esincane, empeleni imhlophe kuphela. Ngokuvamile, i-cotton lace iyindlela enhle uma ungazimisele ukusebenzisa i-fiber lace eshibhile, kunomqondo onamandla wezindleko.
3, intambo yekotoni, njengoba igama lisikisela, ukusetshenziswa kwentambo yekotoni elukiwe ibe yintambo. Intambo yekotoni ngoba konke ukusetshenziswa kwentambo yekotoni elukiwe, ngakho-ke ukujiya okujwayelekile kuzoba kukhulu, umuzwa uzoba lukhuni kakhulu. Izinzuzo kanye nokungalungi kwentambo yekotoni kufana nokwentambo yendwangu yekotoni. Intambo yekotoni inomumo omncane kunentambo yekotoni, izindleko zibiza kancane, futhi akulula ukuyishwabanisa, kodwa ngoba ikhulu, akulula ukuyigoqa nokuyigoba. Ngokuvamile, intambo yentambo yekotoni ivame ukusetshenziswa ezingutsheni zentambo encane, futhi ayibonakali kangako.
4, intambo yokuhlobisa isendlalelo sentambo enekotini, i-polyester nezinye izintambo ukuze ifake ukuma kwentambo, bese isika uhlaka ngoba ulwelwesi luyi-mesh, ngakho-ke umuzwa uzoshintsha ngokuya ngobulukhuni bentambo, kodwa ngokuvamile, intambo yokuhlobisa ethambile eyenziwe ngentambo ethambile izoba ngcono. Uma kuqhathaniswa nezinhlobo ezi-3 ezingenhla, inzuzo yentambo yokuhlobisa izwakala ithambile futhi ibushelelezi, akulula ukuyishwabanisa, ingagoqwa, ukuqina kwayo kungcono. Ububi bentambo yokuhlobisa akusikho uku-ayina okushisa okuphezulu, ukwenza imodeli kuncane, kulula ukuphula. Ngokuvamile, izingubo ezinezidingo eziphakeme zokuthamba kanye nezinto zokwakha zizosebenzisa intambo ehlotshisiwe, njengendwangu yesiketi kanye nezingubo zangaphansi.
5, i-lace encibilikayo emanzini yenziwa ngentambo ye-polyester noma iphethini ye-lace ye-viscose elenziwe ngendwangu ephepheni lokufaka ulwelwesi, ngemuva kokuqeda ukusebenzisa amanzi ashisayo aphezulu ukuncibilikisa iphepha lokufaka ulwelwesi, kusale umzimba we-lace kuphela, naphezu kwegama le-lace encibilikayo emanzini. Ngenxa yokuthi i-lace encibilikayo emanzini inezinaliti eziningi kunalezo ezingenhla, i-lace encibilikayo emanzini nayo ibiza kakhulu. Inzuzo ye-lace encibilikayo emanzini ukuthi izwakala kahle kakhulu, ithambile futhi ibushelelezi, inwebeka kancane, iyacwebezela, inomqondo onezinhlangothi ezintathu, kanye namaphethini amaningi okulingisa. Ububi be-lace encibilikayo emanzini ukuthi izindleko ziphezulu, zijiyile, akulula ukuyigoqa, futhi azikwazi ukucindezelwa ekushiseni okuphezulu. Ngokuvamile, izingubo ezenziwe kahle nezinto zokwakha zisebenzisa i-lace encibilikayo emanzini, futhi i-lace encibilikayo emanzini eyenziwe kahle ingafinyelela intengo yama-yuan angamashumi noma ngisho namakhulu emitha.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Ephreli-02-2024
