Ubuhle be-Bow

Iminsalosebebuyile, futhi kulokhu, abantu abadala bayajoyina. Ngokuphathelene nobuhle bomnsalo, sivela ezingxenyeni ezimbili ukuze sethule, umlando womnsalo, kanye nabaklami abadumile bezingubo zomnsalo.

Iminsalo yaqala eYurophu ngesikhathi "seMpi yasePalatine" ngeNkathi Ephakathi. Amasosha amaningi ayesebenzisa izikhafu zesilika entanyeni yawo ukuze afake amakhola ezihembe zawo. Umholi wemfashini uLouis XIV waphawula ukuthi, kwabe sekwakhiwa ithayi yomnsalo. Lolu hlobo lwethayi lomnsalo lwalethwa ngokushesha luvela eFrance luya eNgilandi, lwabe selusakazekela eYurophu, lwaba uphawu lobukhosi nobuhle.

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Ngekhulu le-17, "isitayela seBaroque" sasithandwa kakhulu, abesifazane nabesilisa baqala ukuhlobisa izingubo zabo ngamaribhoni e-lace enziwe ngezandla. Phakathi nalesi sikhathi, iminsalo yayisetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izingubo zesilika neze-satin, iyunifomu yasebukhosini, izindondo zokuhlonipha ezempi, ubucwebe begolide, njll.

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Ngekhulu le-18, "isitayela seRococo" safika eYurophu, futhi lesi sikhathi sasiyinkathi ekhazimulayo yokuhlobisa umnsalo. Kusukela ku-bow tie kaLouis XIV kuya eqoqweni lobucwebe leNdlovukazi uMarie, iminsalo ibilokhu ingenye yezitayela ezithandwa kakhulu zemindeni yasebukhosini baseYurophu.

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Ngekhulu lama-20, iminsalo yaqala ukuvela emisebenzini eminingi yabaklami. Iminsalo ayiyona nje kuphela indlela yokucabanga nokukhanga kwabesifazane, kodwa futhi ingenye yezinto ezithandwa kakhulu ngabaklami bemfashini. Imikhiqizo ehlukene inezindlela ezahlukene zokuhumusha.

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Ngawo-1950, uJacques Fath, omunye wabaholi bemfashini abathathu baseFrance, umbukiso wakhe wasentwasahlobo ka-1950 wabangela umuzwa omkhulu. UJacques Fath akagcini nje ngesimo somnsalo emiklamweni yakhe, kodwa uhlanganisa ukungabonakali kwawo nemfashini. Lokhu kwabeka nesisekelo sokuthi umnsalo ube yinto ehlala njalo emfashinini.

UGabrielle Chanel naye wayenomuzwa okhethekile ngemicibisholo. Emiklamo yakhe, imicibisholo yayifanekisela ubuhle kanye nobukhosi.

Ngo-1927, kwazalwa umsebenzi odumile ka-Elsa Schiaparelli othi "Dislocated Visual Bow Knit Sweater". Lo mklamo wawuyintsha enesibindi eyaguqula umnsalo usuka esimweni esinezinhlangothi ezintathu waba umhlobiso oyisicaba onezinhlangothi ezimbili.

Isici somnsalo besilokhu sikhona kuwo wonke umlando kaChristian Dior, kusukela emfashinini ephezulu kuya ekupakisheni amakha, sihlanganisa kahle ubuhle nokudlala komnsalo.

UCristóbal Balenciaga uthanda ukuchaza isithombe sowesifazane njengovemvane olunamaphiko asakazekile. Ngezakhiwo nemigqa eyahlukene, amamodeli afihliwe kulezi zakhiwo ezinkuluingubo, njengokungathi bangandiza phezulu nganoma yisiphi isikhathi.

Kuze kube manje, iminsalo, efanekisela uthando, ubuhle kanye nobuhle, iminsalo isengenye yezinto ezivamile ekwakhiweni kwezingubo zabesifazane zanamuhla. Zihlala zishintsha ukubukeka kwazo ngenxa yokuthanda kwabaklami, futhi zidlala indima ebalulekile ekubukekeni kwezingubo.

URei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) unomuzwa okhethekile wezakhi zomnsalo. Isitayela sakhe siwukunganaki imithetho nokuphula amasiko. Embukisweni wentwasahlobo nehlobo ka-2022, wethule umnsalo ngesimo sokunyathelisa kanye nobukhulu obuthathu, ngale ndlela uhlukana nendlela yendabuko yokweqisa ukuma kweminsalo, umnsalo ophrintiwe kanye nobukhulu obuthathu udale umthelela obonakalayo onamandla. Amasu okunyathelisa noma okuhlobisa ubukhulu obuthathu asetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izindawo ezinkulu zeminsalo, izimbali, amaqabunga kanye namanye amaphethini ngendlela elula. Ukunyathelisa okuphindaphindiwe iphethini yomnsalo obuthathu, kanye nesitayela sezinwele se-resin "ebukhulu obubili" kuletha umthelela obonakalayo onamandla.

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UGiambattista Valli wayengumklami odumile wase-Ital, futhi wakha uphawu olunegama lakhe ngo-2004. Iminsalo, i-tulle, ama-ruffle, amabhande okhalweni, kanye nemihlobiso yezimbali ye-3D yizinto eziphawulekayo zeGiambattista Valli. Imiklamo yeGiambattista Valli isebenzisa umnsalo omkhulu wakudala, kanye nemigqa ebushelelezi, egcwele umqondo wobuciko. Ukuhlanganiswa kwezimbali ze-gauze nezimbali kufakwe ungqimba, okunikeza abantu umuzwa ofiphele nowamaphupho. Umklamo omnyama udala isimo esizinzile nesingaqondakali. Upinki oqinile wenza ingubo ibe lula futhi ibe yinhle. Imiklamo yengubo enomnsalo omnandi kanye nomphetho oweqile izuze izinhliziyo zezilaleli ngokukhanga kwayo okubonakalayo. Iningi lamaphethini lisesimweni sezimbali, kanye nezindwangu zeleyisi, okudala umphumela ovumelanayo nohlangene.

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U-Alexis Mabille uwuphawu oludumile olwasungulwa ngumklami u-Alexis Mabille ngo-2005. Umnsalo uwuphawu oluhle kakhulu lwalo mklami osemusha. Uthe "uthayi womnsalo" uwuphawu lomqondo ongathathi hlangothi, ongeke nje uxhunyaniswe nezibopho zamadoda, kodwa futhi uveze ubuhle besifazane. Ochungechungeni luka-Alexis Mabille lwasekwindla nasebusika lwango-2022, iminsalo ibonakala ezindaweni ezahlukene ezingutsheni: emahlombe ezingubo ezingaphandle kwamahlombe kanye namajakethi esudi, ezinhlangothini zama-jumpsuit e-lace kanye nasesinqeni sika-izingubo zakusihlwaUmklami wasebenzisa indwangu ye-gauze ne-satin futhi wenza isimo somnsalo ezingutsheni, kanti umklamo womnsalo wanezela isimo sothando ku-ingubo.

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Uchungechunge lwe-MING MA lwasekwindla nasebusika lwango-2022 lubizwa ngokuthi "Dream Back to New Romance", oluphefumulelwe "yi-New Romantic Cultural Movement" eyavela eNgilandi ekuqaleni kwawo-1980. Umklami uthi singabantu abangokomoya abakhululekile. Ngokusekelwe kumasiko akudala aseYurophu, lo mklamo uhlanganisa ubuhle obuyimfihlakalo basempumalanga, uhlanganisa isitayela esihle nobuhle obungathathi hlangothi, futhi uvula isahluko esisha nolimi lwemfashini yesimanje.

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Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Jan-19-2024