Umnsalo omuhle

IminsaloBabuyile, futhi kulokhu, abantu abadala bayajoyina. Ngokuqondene nomnsalo wokuzibulala, sisuka ezingxenyeni ezi-2 zokwethula, umlando womnsalo, kanye nabaklami abadumile bezingubo zokumboza.

Iminsalo yaqhamuka eYurophu phakathi "nempi yePalatine" ngeNkathi Ephakathi. Amasosha amaningi asebenzisa amasifuphu esilika azungeze izintamo zawo ukulungisa ama-collar amahembe abo. Umholi wemfashini uLouis XIV uqaphele ukuthi, khona-ke kwaklanywa ithayi lomnsalo. Lolu hlobo lwe-Bow Tie lwalethwa ngokushesha kusuka eFrance kuya eNgilandi, kwabe sekusakazeka eYurophu, kwaqala ukuba nophawu lobukhosi nobuhle.

Ngekhulu le-17, i- "Baroque Style" yayithandwa kakhulu, amanenekazi kanye namanenekazi aqala ukuhlobisa izingubo zazo ngezintambo zelebhu yelengi. Ngalesi sikhathi, iminsalo yayisetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izingubo zikasilika ne-satin, umfaniswano wobukhosi, izindondo zezempi, ubucwebe begolide, njll.

Ngekhulu le-18, "isitayela seRococo" sasikhukhuleka eYurophu, futhi le nkathi ibingu "iminyaka ekhazimulayo" yomhlobiso womnsalo. Kusuka kuLouis XIV Bow Tie ku-Quenter Marie jewelry iqoqo lobucwebe, imigqa bekulokhu kungenye yezindlela eziyintandokazi zemindeni yaseYurophu.

Ngekhulu lama-20, iminsalo yaqala ukuvela emisebenzini eminingi yabaklami. Iminsalo akuyona nje ukuboniswa komcabango wabesifazane kanye ne-charm, kodwa futhi enye yezinto ezithandwa kakhulu ukwakheka kwabaqambi bemfashini. Imikhiqizo ehlukene inezitayela ezihlukile zokuhumusha.

Ngawo-1950, uJacques Fath, omunye wabaholi bemfashini abathathu baseFrance, umbukiso wakhe wentwasahlobo wakhe wentwasahlobo yango-1950 wabangela umuzwa omkhulu. UJacques Fath akakhawulwanga ekubumbeni komnsalo emiklamo yakhe, kepha ahlanganisa ukukhishwa kwawo ngemfashini. Lokhu futhi kwabeka isisekelo somnsalo ukuze ube yinto ebekezelayo design infashini.

UGabrielle Chanel ubuye waba nomuzwa okhethekile weminsalo. Emiklamweni yakhe, iminsalo ifanekisela ubuhle ubuhle kanye nobukhosi.

Ngo-1927, umsebenzi odumile ka-Elsa Schiaparelli odumile "ukhiphe umnsalo obonakalayo obonakalayo we-Bhina. Lo mklamo wawuwukusha okubhalwe phansi okuguqula umnsalo usuka ekwakhekeni okunezinhlangothi ezintathu emhlobisweni onobukhulu obuncane.

Into yomnsalo ibilokhu kulo lonke umlando we-Frimal Dior, kusuka emfashinini ophakeme kuya emaphaketheni amakha, ukuhlanganisa kahle ubuhle nokudlala komnsalo.

I-Cristóbal Balenciaga ithanda ukuchaza isibalo sowesifazane njengebhabhathane ngamaphiko. Ngokusebenzisa izakhiwo nemigqa ehlukahlukene, amamodeli afihlwe kulezi zinhlegqoka, sengathi zingandiza phezulu nganoma yisiphi isikhathi.

Kuze kube manje, iminsalo, ekhombisa ezothando, ukusikwa nobuhle, iminsalo isenye yezinto ezijwayelekile ekwakhiweni kwanamuhla kwabesifazane. Bashintsha njalo ukubukeka kwabo ngaphansi kwabaklami bazimisele, futhi babamba iqhaza elibalulekile eGarment Aesthetic.

I-Rei Kawakubo (Comme Des Garçons) inomuzwa okhethekile wezinto zomnsalo. Isitayela sakhe ukunganaki imithetho kanye namasiko okuphula umthetho. Embukisweni wentwasahlobo wentwasahlobo angama-2022, wethule umnsalo ngendlela yokuphrinta nokobumbano kathathu, ngale ndlela ihlukane nendabuko yendabuko yeqa isimo seminsalo, ephrintiwe futhi i-3D bow idale umthelela obonakalayo wokubuka. Amasu okuphrinta noma anezici ezimbili zokufeketha asetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izindawo ezinkulu zeminsalo, izimbali, amaqabunga namanye amaphethini ku-silhouette elula. Ukuphrinta okuphindaphindiwe kwe-3D Bow Pattern, kanye "nokwenziwa kwezinwele ezinobukhulu obubili" ukuletha umthelela oqinile wokubuka.

UGiambattista Valli wayengumqambi odumile wase-Ital, futhi wakha uhlobo ngegama lakhe ngo-2004. Imiklamo yeGiambattista Valli's isebenzisa umnsalo omkhulu we-classic, kanye nemigqa ebushelelezi, igcwele umqondo wobuciko. Ukuhlukaniswa kwezimbali ze-gauze nezimbali kusekelwe, kunikeza abantu umuzwa onobuhle nophuphayo. Idizayini enomdlandla idala isimo esiqinile nesingaqondakali. Ipinki eqinile yenza ukuthi ingubo ibe lula futhi ibe nenhle. Imiklamo yokugqoka enomnsalo omnandi nokweqile i-hem ithole izinhliziyo zezithameli ngesikhalazo sayo sokubuka. Amaphethini amaningi asesimweni sezimbali, nezindwangu ze-LACE, adala umphumela ovumelanayo futhi onobunye.

U-Alexis Mabille ungumkhiqizo odumile owasungulwa nguMklami u-Alexis Mabille ngonyaka ka-2005. Umnsalo uwuphawu olungcono kakhulu lomklami omncane. Uthe i- "Bow Tie" iwuphawu lomqondo ongathathi hlangothi, olungakwazi ukuxhunywa kuphela ngamathayi e-Men Bow, kodwa futhi uveze ubuhle besifazane. Kuchungechunge nochungechunge luka-Alexis Mabisle's 2022 Uchungechunge, iminsalo ivela ezindaweni ezahlukene ezingutsheni: emahlombe ezingubo zokugqoka ezisehlose nasemahlombe egqoke ama-jumpsets naso okhalweni lweizingubo zakusihlwa. Umklami wasebenzisa indwangu ye-gauze ne-satin futhi wenza ukwakheka komnsalo ezingutsheni, kanye nomklamo womnsalo wengeza isimo sothando kugqoka.

Uchungechunge lwe-Ming Ma's 2022 ekwindla lubizwa nge- "Dream Buyela ku-New Romance", eliphefumulelwe yi- "New Romantic Cultural Movement" eyaqhamuka eNgilandi ekuqaleni kweminyaka yama-1980s. Umqambi uthi okungokomoya kwezikhulu. Ngokwesisekelo samasiko ase-European Classical, lo mklamo uhlanganisa ama-aesthetics angaqondakali, ahlanganisa isitayela esihle nobuhle bokungathathi hlangothi, bese uvula isahluko esisha ngolimi lwesimanje lwemfashini.