I-BOW AESTETIC

Iminsalobabuyile, futhi kulokhu, abantu abadala bajoyina. Ngokuqondene nobuhle bomnsalo, sisuka ezingxenyeni ezi-2 ukwethula, umlando womnsalo, nabaqambi abadumile bezingubo zomnsalo.

Iminsalo yavela eYurophu ngesikhathi "seMpi yasePalatine" ngeNkathi Ephakathi. Amasosha amaningi ayesebenzisa izikhafu zikasilika ezintanyeni zawo ukuze alungise amakholomu amahembe awo. Umholi wemfashini uLouis XIV waphawula ukuthi, kwase kwakhiwa i-bow tie. Lolu hlobo lwe-bow tie lwethulwa ngokushesha lusuka eFrance luya eNgilandi, lwabe selusakazekela eYurophu, lwaba uphawu lokuhlonishwa nobuhle.

Ngekhulu le-17, "isitayela se-baroque" sasithandwa kakhulu, abesifazane nabanumzane baqala ukuhlobisa izingubo zabo ngamaribhoni enziwe ngezandla. Ngalesi sikhathi, iminsalo yayisetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izingubo zikasilika ne-satin, iyunifomu yasebukhosini, izindondo zokuhlonishwa kwezempi, ubucwebe begolide, njll.

Ngekhulu le-18, "isitayela se-Rococo" safika eYurophu, futhi lesi sikhathi futhi "inkathi ekhazimulayo" yokuhlobisa umnsalo. Kusukela ku-bow tie ka-Louis XIV kuya eqoqweni lobucwebe le-Queen Marie, iminsalo ibilokhu ingenye yezitayela eziyintandokazi zemindeni yasebukhosini baseYurophu.

Ekhulwini lama-20, iminsalo yaqala ukubonakala emisebenzini eminingi yabaklami. Iminsalo ayiyona nje ukuboniswa komcabango wabesifazane kanye ne-charm, kodwa futhi enye yezinto ezithandwa kakhulu zokuklama zabadwebi befashini. Imikhiqizo ehlukene inezitayela ezahlukene zokuhumusha.

Ngeminyaka yawo-1950, u-Jacques Fath, omunye wabaholi bengqephu abathathu baseFrance, umbukiso wakhe wasentwasahlobo wango-1950 wabangela isasasa elikhulu. U-Jacques Fath's akagcini nje ngokukhothama emiklameni yakhe, kodwa uhlanganisa ukuvela kwayo emfashinini. Lokhu futhi kwabeka isisekelo sokuthi umnsalo ube yinto ehlala njalo yokuklama emfashini.

UGabrielle Chanel naye wayenomuzwa okhethekile weminsalo. Emiklamo yakhe, iminsalo yayifanekisela ubuhle nobuhle.

Ngo-1927, kwazalwa umsebenzi odumile ka-Elsa Schiaparelli othi "Dislocated Visual Bow Knit Sweater". Lo mklamo ubuwumusha onesibindi owashintsha umnsalo usuka kumumo owunxantathu waba umhlobiso oyisicaba onezinhlangothi ezimbili.

Isici somnsalo sibe khona kuwo wonke umlando we-Christian Dior, kusukela kumfashini ophezulu kuya ekufakweni kwamakha, okuhlanganisa ngokuphelele ubuhle nokudlala komnsalo.

UCristóbal Balenciaga uthanda ukuchaza umfanekiso wesifazane njengovemvane olunamaphiko anwebekayo. Ngokusebenzisa izakhiwo nemigqa ehlukahlukene, amamodeli afihliwe kulezi ezinkulugqoka, sengathi zingandizela phezulu noma nini.

Kuze kube manje, iminsalo, efanekisela uthando, ubuhle nobuhle, iminsalo isengenye yezinto ezivamile ekwakhiweni kwezingubo zabesifazane zanamuhla. Bahlala beshintsha ukubukeka kwabo ngaphansi kokuzimisela kwabaklami, futhi badlala indima ebalulekile ekuhlobiseni kwengubo.

U-Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) unomuzwa okhethekile wezakhi zomnsalo. Isitayela sakhe Ukuziba imithetho nokuphula amasiko. Embukisweni wentwasahlobo nehlobo ka-2022, wethula umnsalo ngendlela yokuphrinta kanye ne-dimensional, ngale ndlela ihlukana nendlela yendabuko yokweqisa ukuma kweminsalo, umnsalo ophrintiwe kanye no-3d udale umthelela oqinile wokubuka. Amasu okuphrinta noma ama-embroidery amathathu-ntathu asetshenziselwa ukuhlobisa izindawo ezinkulu zeminsalo, izimbali, amaqabunga namanye amaphethini ku-silhouette elula. Ukuphrinta okuphindaphindiwe kwephethini yomnsalo we-3d, kanye nesitayela sezinwele ze-resin "ezimbili-ntathu" kuletha umthelela oqinile wokubuka.

U-Giambattista Valli wayengumklami odumile wase-Ital, futhi wakha uphawu ngegama lakhe ngo-2004. Iminsalo, i-tulle, ama-ruffles, amabhande asesinqeni, kanye nemihlobiso yezimbali ye-3D yizici zesiginesha ze-Giambattista Valli. Imiklamo ye-Giambattista Valli's isebenzisa umnsalo omkhulu wakudala, nemigqa ebushelelezi, egcwele umuzwa wobuciko. Ukucutshungulwa kwe-gauze nezimbali eziqhakazile kugqinsiwe, okunikeza abantu umuzwa ocashile futhi ophuphile. Idizayini enomnyama idala isimo esizinzile nesingaqondakali. I-pink eqinile yenza ingubo ibe lula futhi ibe nenhle. Imiklamo yezingubo ezinomnsalo omnandi kanye ne-hem eyihaba izuze izinhliziyo zezethameli ngokukhanga kwayo okubonakalayo. Iningi lamaphethini lisesimweni sezimbali, nezindwangu ze-lace, okwenza umphumela ovumelanayo futhi obumbene.

U-Alexis Mabille ungumkhiqizo odumile owasungulwa ngumklami u-Alexis Mabille ngo-2005. Umnsalo uwuphawu oluhle kakhulu lwalo mklami osemusha. Uthe "umnsalo womnsalo" uwuphawu lomqondo ongathathi hlangothi, ongakwazi ukuxhunyaniswa nezibopho zomnsalo wamadoda kuphela, kodwa futhi ubonise ubuhle besifazane. Ochungechungeni luka-Alexis Mabille luka-2022 lwasekwindla nasebusika, iminsalo ibonakala ezindaweni ezihlukene ezingutsheni: emahlombe ezingubo zangaphandle namajakhethi esudi, emaceleni ama-jumpsuits e-lace nasokhalweni lwe.izingubo zakusihlwa. Umklami wasebenzisa i-gauze nendwangu ye-satin futhi wenza umumo womnsalo ezingutsheni, futhi umklamo womnsalo wengeza umoya wothandogqoka.

Uchungechunge lwekwindla nobusika lwe-MING MA lwango-2022 lubizwa ngokuthi "Dream Back to New Romance", olugqugquzelwe "New Romantic Cultural Movement" eyavela eNgilandi ekuqaleni kwawo-1980. Umklami ufuna okungokomoya kokukhululeka ngokwethu. Ngokwesisekelo sosiko lwakudala lwaseYurophu, lo mklamo uhlanganisa ubuhle obungaqondakali basempumalanga, uhlanganise isitayela esihle nobuhle obungathathi hlangothi, futhi uvula isahluko esisha ngolimi lwemfashini yesimanje.