Okwamanje, abaningiizinhlobo zezingubozidinga izitifiketi ezahlukene zezindwangu kanye nezimboni ezikhiqiza izindwangu. Leli phepha lethula kafushane izitifiketi zezindwangu ze-GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex ezigxile kakhulu ezinhlotsheni ezinkulu muva nje.
1. Isitifiketi se-GRS
Izinga lokuvuselela kabusha lomhlaba wonke eliqinisekiswe yi-GRS lezindwangu nezingubo; I-GRS iyizinga lomkhiqizo elizinikele, lamazwe ngamazwe, neliphelele elibhekana nokuphoqelelwa kwabathengisi be-supply chain ukukhunjulwa komkhiqizo, uchungechunge lokulawula ukugcinwa, izithako ezisetshenzisiwe, umthwalo wemfanelo womphakathi kanye nemikhuba yezemvelo, kanye nemikhawulo yamakhemikhali, eqalwe yi-TextileExchange futhi yaqinisekiswa yinhlangano yesitifiketi seqembu lesithathu.
Inhloso yesitifiketi se-GRS ukuqinisekisa ukuthi izimangalo ezenziwe kumkhiqizo ofanele zilungile nokuthi umkhiqizo ukhiqizwa ngaphansi kwezimo zokusebenza ezinhle futhi unomthelela omncane kakhulu kwezemvelo kanye nomthelela wamakhemikhali. Isitifiketi se-GRS senzelwe ukuhlangabezana nezithako ezitholiwe/eziphinde zasetshenziswa eziqukethwe emikhiqizweni (eqediwe kanye neqediwe kancane) ukuze kuqinisekiswe yinkampani, kanye nokuqinisekisa imisebenzi ehlobene nomthwalo wemfanelo wezenhlalo, imikhuba yezemvelo kanye nokusetshenziswa kwamakhemikhali.
Ukufaka isicelo sesitifiketi se-GRS kumele kuhlangabezane nezidingo ezinhlanu zokulandelela, ukuvikelwa kwemvelo, umthwalo wemfanelo womphakathi, ukumaka ukuvuselelwa kanye nezimiso ezijwayelekile.
Ngaphezu kwemininingwane yezinto zokusetshenziswa, le nqubo ihlanganisa nezindinganiso zokucubungula imvelo. Ihlanganisa izidingo eziqinile zokwelashwa kwamanzi amdaka kanye nokusetshenziswa kwamakhemikhali (ngokusho kwe-Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) kanye ne-Oeko-Tex100). Izici zomthwalo wemfanelo emphakathini nazo zifakiwe ku-GRS, ehlose ukuqinisekisa impilo nokuphepha kwabasebenzi, ukusekela amalungelo abasebenzi kanye nokuhambisana nezindinganiso ezibekwe yi-International Labour Organisation (ILO).
Njengamanje, izinhlobo eziningi zenza imikhiqizo ye-polyester ephinde yasetshenziswa kanye nekotoni ephinde yasetshenziswa, okudinga ukuthi abahlinzeki bezindwangu nezintambo bahlinzeke ngezitifiketi ze-GRS kanye nolwazi lwabo lokuthengiselana ukuze kulandelwe futhi kuqinisekiswe umkhiqizo.
2. Isitifiketi se-GOTS
I-GOTS iqinisekisa i-global organicizindinganiso zezindwangu; I-Global Standard for Organic Textile Certification (GOTS) ichazwa ngokuyinhloko njengezidingo zokuqinisekisa isimo se-organic sezindwangu, okuhlanganisa ukuvunwa kwezinto zokusetshenziswa, ukukhiqizwa okunesibopho semvelo kanye nomphakathi, kanye nokulebula ukuqinisekisa ulwazi lwabathengi mayelana nemikhiqizo.
Leli zinga lihlinzeka ngokucubungula, ukukhiqiza, ukupakisha, ukulebula, ukungenisa, ukuthumela ngaphandle kanye nokusatshalaliswa kwezindwangu zemvelo. Imikhiqizo yokugcina ingafaka, kodwa ayigcini nje kulokhu: imikhiqizo yefayibha, imicu, izindwangu, izingubo kanye nezindwangu zasekhaya, leli zinga ligxile kuphela ezidingweni eziphoqelekile.
Into eqinisekisiwe: izindwangu ezikhiqizwe ngemicu yemvelo yemvelo
Ububanzi besitifiketi: Ukuphathwa kokukhiqizwa komkhiqizo we-GOT, ukuvikelwa kwemvelo, umthwalo wemfanelo womphakathi izici ezintathu
Izidingo zomkhiqizo: Iqukethe i-fiber yemvelo engu-70%, ukuxuba akuvunyelwe, iqukethe i-fiber yokwenziwa noma ephinde yasetshenziswa engu-10% (izimpahla zezemidlalo zingaqukatha i-fiber yokwenziwa noma ephinde yasetshenziswa engu-25%), ayikho i-fiber eguquliwe ngokwezakhi zofuzo.
Izindwangu ze-organic nazo zingenye yezitifiketi ezibalulekile zezidingo zezinto zokusetshenziswa zemikhiqizo emikhulu, phakathi kwazo okumele sihlukanise umehluko phakathi kwe-GOTS ne-OCS, okuyizidingo ezihlukene kakhulu zezithako ze-organic zomkhiqizo.
3. Isitifiketi se-OCS
Izinga lokuqukethwe kwezinto eziphilayo eliqinisekiswe yi-OCS; I-Organic Content Standard (OCS) ingasetshenziswa kuyo yonke imikhiqizo engeyona ukudla equkethe izithako eziphilayo ezingama-5 kuya ku-100%. Leli zinga lingasetshenziswa ukuqinisekisa okuqukethwe kwezinto eziphilayo emkhiqizweni wokugcina. Lingasetshenziswa ukulandelela izinto zokusetshenziswa kusukela emthonjeni kuya emkhiqizweni wokugcina futhi inqubo iqinisekiswa yinhlangano yangaphandle ethembekile. Enqubweni yokuhlola okuzimele ngokuphelele kokuqukethwe kwezinto eziphilayo emikhiqizweni, amazinga azoba sobala futhi ahambisane. Leli zinga lingasetshenziswa njengethuluzi lebhizinisi phakathi kwezinkampani ukusiza izinkampani ukuqinisekisa ukuthi imikhiqizo eziyithengayo noma ezikhokhelayo ihlangabezana nezidingo zazo.
Into yokuqinisekiswa: imikhiqizo engeyona ukudla ekhiqizwe ngezinto zokusetshenziswa zemvelo ezivunyiwe.
Ububanzi besitifiketi: Ukuphathwa kokukhiqizwa komkhiqizo we-OCS.
Izidingo zomkhiqizo: Ziqukethe izinto zokusetshenziswa ezingaphezu kuka-5% ezihlangabezana nezindinganiso zezinto eziphilayo ezivunyiwe.
Izidingo ze-OCS zezithako eziphilayo ziphansi kakhulu kune-GOTS, ngakho-ke ikhasimende lomkhiqizo elijwayelekile lizodinga umhlinzeki ukuthi ahlinzeke ngesitifiketi se-GOTS kunesitifiketi se-OCS.
4. Isitifiketi se-BCI
I-BCI Certified Swiss Good Cotton Development Association; I-Better Cotton Development Association (BCI), eyabhaliswa ngo-2009 futhi enendlunkulu yayo eGeneva, eSwitzerland, iyinhlangano yobulungu bamazwe ngamazwe engenzi nzuzo enamahhovisi amane amele eShayina, eNdiya, ePakistan naseLondon. Njengamanje, inezinhlangano ezingaphezu kuka-1,000 ezingamalungu emhlabeni jikelele, ikakhulukazi okuhlanganisa amayunithi okutshala ukotini, amabhizinisi ezindwangu zikakotini kanye nemikhiqizo yokuthengisa.
I-BCI isebenzisana nababambiqhaza abaningi ukukhuthaza amaphrojekthi okukhulisa i-BetterCotton emhlabeni jikelele kanye nokwenza lula ukugeleza kwe-BetterCotton kulo lonke uchungechunge lokuhlinzeka, ngokusekelwe ezimisweni zokukhiqizwa kokotini ezathuthukiswa yi-BCI. Umgomo omkhulu we-BCI ukuguqula ukukhiqizwa kokotini ngezinga lomhlaba wonke ngokuthuthukiswa kwe-Good Cotton Project, okwenza ukotini omuhle ube yimpahla eyinhloko. Ngo-2020, ukukhiqizwa kokotini omuhle kuzofinyelela ku-30% wesamba sokukhiqizwa kokotini emhlabeni wonke.
Izimiso eziyisithupha zokukhiqiza ze-BCI:
1.Nciphisa imiphumela eyingozi ezindleleni zokuvikela izitshalo.
2. Ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi ngendlela efanele kanye nokongiwa kwemithombo yamanzi.
3. Gxila empilweni yenhlabathi.
4. Vikela izindawo zokuhlala zemvelo.
5. Ukunakekela nokuvikela ikhwalithi yefayibha.
6. Ukukhuthaza umsebenzi omuhle.
Njengamanje, izinhlobo eziningi zidinga ukotini wabahlinzeki bazo ukuthi uvele e-BCI, futhi zineplatifomu yazo yokulandelela i-BCI ukuqinisekisa ukuthi abahlinzeki bangathenga i-BCI yangempela, lapho intengo ye-BCI ifana neyekotini evamile, kodwa umhlinzeki uzofaka imali ehambisanayo lapho efaka isicelo futhi esebenzisa iplatifomu ye-BCI kanye nobulungu. Ngokuvamile, ukusetshenziswa kwe-BCCU kulandelwa ngeplatifomu ye-BCI (1BCCU=1kg i-lint yekotini).
5. Isitifiketi se-RDS
I-RDS eqinisekisiwe yi-Humane and Responsible down standard; i-RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (Responsibledown Standard). I-Humane and Responsible Down Standard uhlelo lokuqinisekisa olwakhiwe yi-VF Corporation's TheNorthFace ngokubambisana ne-Textile Exchange kanye ne-Dutch ControlUnion Certifications, okuyinhlangano yesitifiketi yangaphandle. Le phrojekthi yethulwa ngokusemthethweni ngoJanuwari 2014 kanti isitifiketi sokuqala sakhishwa ngoJuni walowo nyaka. Ngesikhathi sokuthuthukiswa kohlelo lokuqinisekisa, umkhiphi wesitifiketi wasebenzisana nabaphakeli abaphambili i-AlliedFeather& Down kanye ne-Downlite ukuhlaziya nokuqinisekisa ukuhambisana kuzo zonke izigaba zochungechunge lokunikezela oluphansi.
Izimpaphe zamahansi, amadada nezinye izinyoni embonini yokudla zingenye yezinto zokugqoka ezisezingeni eliphezulu nezisebenza kahle kakhulu. I-Humane Down Standard yenzelwe ukuhlola nokulandelela umthombo wanoma yimuphi umkhiqizo osekelwe phansi, okwakha uchungechunge lokugcinwa kusukela ku-gosling kuya kumkhiqizo wokugcina. Isitifiketi se-RDS sihlanganisa isitifiketi sabahlinzeki bezinto zokusetshenziswa eziphansi kanye nezimpaphe, futhi sihlanganisa nesitifiketi sezimboni zokukhiqiza ijazi eliphansi.
6. Isitifiketi se-Oeko-TEX
I-OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 yasungulwa yi-International Environmental Textile Association (OEKO-TEX®Association) ngo-1992 ukuze kuhlolwe izakhiwo zemikhiqizo yendwangu nezingubo ngokwemiphumela yazo empilweni yabantu. I-OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 icacisa izinhlobo zezinto eziyingozi ezaziwayo ezingaba khona emikhiqizweni yendwangu nezingubo. Izinto zokuhlola zifaka phakathi i-pH, i-formaldehyde, izinsimbi ezisindayo, ama-insecticide/herbicides, i-chlorinated phenol, ama-phthalates, i-organotin, ama-azo dyes, ama-carcinogenic/allergenic dyes, i-OPP, i-PFOS, i-PFOA, i-chlorobenzene kanye ne-chlorotoluene, ama-polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, ukushesha kombala, i-volatile matter, iphunga, njll., futhi imikhiqizo ihlukaniswe ngezigaba ezine ngokuya ngokusetshenziswa kokugcina: Isigaba I sezinsana, Isigaba II sokuxhumana ngqo nesikhumba, Isigaba III sokuxhumana ngqo nesikhumba kanye neSigaba IV sokusetshenziswa kokuhlobisa.
Njengamanje, i-Oeko-tex, njengenye yeziqinisekiso zemvelo eziyisisekelo kakhulu zezimboni zezindwangu, ngokuvamile idinga ukubambisana nabanikazi bomkhiqizo, okuyisidingo esincane kakhulu sezimboni.
Ukuphetha
I-Siyinghongifektri yezinguboungumholi embonini yemfashini futhi uthole izitifiketi eziningi kanye namazinga okusiza ibhizinisi lakho liphumelele.
Uma ufuna izingubo zakho zibe nobungane nemvelo futhi zibe nesitayela, ungabheki kude ne-siyanghongifektri yezingubo. Sibheka ukusimama kanye nomthwalo wemfanelo emphakathini njengezinto eziza kuqala ekukhiqizeni ukuze ukwazi ukudala izingubo zemfashini ngokuqiniseka ngaphandle kokulimaza imvelo.Xhumana nathinamuhla ukuthola ulwazi olwengeziwe mayelana nokuthi singakusiza kanjani ukufeza imigomo yakho.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Mashi-28-2024
