Abantu abaningi bacabanga ukuthi umsebenzi "womklami wefashini waseShayina" waqala kuphela eminyakeni eyi-10 edlule. Okusho ukuthi, eminyakeni eyi-10 edlule, baye bathuthela kancane kancane kumaviki emfashini "Big Four". Eqinisweni, kungashiwo ukuthi kwathatha iminyaka ecishe ibe ngu-40 kumaShayina umklamo wemfashiniukungenela amasonto emfashini "amaBig Four".
Okokuqala, ake ngikunikeze isibuyekezo somlando (ukwabelana lapha ikakhulukazi encwadini yami "Imfashini yaseShayina: Izingxoxo nabaklami bemfashini baseShayina"). Incwadi lisatholakala ku-inthanethi.)
1. Ulwazi lwesizinda
Ake siqale ngezinguquko zaseShayina kanye nenkathi yokuvula ngeminyaka yawo-1980. Ake ngikunikeze isizinda.
(1) Amamodeli wemfashini
Ngo-1986, imodeli yaseShayina u-Shi Kai wabamba iqhaza emqhudelwaneni wokumodela wamazwe ngamazwe endaweni yakhe yangasese. Kungokokuqala ukuthi imodeli yaseShayina ibambe iqhaza emqhudelwaneni wamazwe ngamazwe futhi iwine "umklomelo okhethekile".
Ngo-1989, i-Shanghai yabamba umncintiswano wokuqala wemodeli ye-New China - "Schindler Cup" umncintiswano wemodeli.
(2) Omagazini bemfashini
Ngo-1980, kwethulwa umagazini wokuqala wemfashini waseChina iFashion. Nokho, okuqukethwe kwakusabuswa amasu okusika nokuthunga.
Ngo-1988, umagazini i-ELLE waba umagazini wokuqala wemfashini wamazwe ngamazwe ukufika eChina.
(3)Umbukiso wokuhweba ngezingubo
Ngo-1981, i-"New Haoxing Clothing Exhibition" yabanjelwa e-Beijing, okwakungumbukiso wokuqala wezingubo owawubanjelwe eShayina ngemva kwenguquko nokuvulwa.
Ngo-1986, ingqungquthela yokuqala yemfashini ye-New China yabanjelwa e-Great Hall of the People e-Beijing.
Ngo-1988, uDalian wabamba umkhosi wokuqala wemfashini eNew China. Ngaleso sikhathi, yayibizwa ngokuthi "iDalian Fashion Festival", futhi kamuva yashintsha igama layo ngokuthi "Dalian International Fashion Festival".
(4) Izinhlangano zabahwebi
I-Beijing Garment and Textile Industry Association yasungulwa ngo-Okthoba 1984, okwakuyinhlangano yokuqala yemboni yezingubo e-China ngemuva kwezinguquko nokuvula.
(5) Umncintiswano wokuklama imfashini
Ngo-1986, i-China Fashion Magazine yabamba umncintiswano wokuqala kazwelonke we-"Golden Scissors Award" wokuklama imvunulo, okwakuwumncintiswano wokuqala omkhulu wokuklama imvunulo yochwepheshe owabanjwa ngendlela esemthethweni e-China.
(6) Ukuhwebelana phesheya kwezilwandle
NgoSepthemba 1985, iShayina yabamba iqhaza embukisweni wama-50 we-International Women’s Wear Exhibition e-Paris, okwakungokokuqala ngqa ngemva kwezinguquko nokuvula lapho i-China yathumela ithimba elizobamba iqhaza embukisweni wokuhwebelana ngezingubo zaphesheya kwezilwandle.
Ngo-September 1987, u-Chen Shanhua, umklami osemusha wase-Shanghai, wamela i-China okokuqala ngqa esiteji samazwe ngamazwe ukuze abonise umhlaba isitayela sabasiki bengqephu baseShayina eParis.
(7)Izingubo imfundo
Ngo-1980, i-Central Academy of Arts and Crafts (manje eyi-Academy of Fine Arts yaseTsinghua University) yavula izifundo zeminyaka emithathu zokuklama imfashini.
Ngo-1982, kwanezelwa uhlelo lweziqu ze-bachelor emkhakheni ofanayo.
Ngo-1988, isayensi yezembatho yokuqala kazwelonke, ubunjiniyela, ubuciko njengendikimba eyinhloko yezikhungo ezintsha zemfundo yezingubo zemfundo ephakeme - iBeijing Institute of Fashion Technology yasungulwa eBeijing. Umanduleli wayo kwakuyiBeijing Textile Institute of Technology, eyasungulwa ngo-1959.
2. Umlando omfushane wabasiki bengqephu baseShayina ababheke emasontweni emfashini "Amane Amakhulu".
Ngomlando omfushane womklamo wemfashini waseShayina ongena emasontweni amane amakhulu emfashini, ngizowuhlukanisa ube izigaba ezintathu.
Isigaba sokuqala:
Abaqambi baseShayina baya phesheya egameni lokushintshana kwamasiko
Ngenxa yokuthi isikhala silinganiselwe, nazi izinhlamvu ezimbalwa ezimele.
(1) Chen Shanhua
Ngo-September 1987, umklami wase-Shanghai u-Chen Shanhua wamela i-China (izwekazi) e-Paris okokuqala ngqa ukukhombisa umhlaba isitayela sabasiki bengqephu baseShayina esiteji samazwe ngamazwe.
Lapha ngicaphuna inkulumo ka-Tan An, iphini likamongameli we-Textile and Garment Chamber of Commerce ye-All-China Federation of Industry and Commerce, owabelane ngalo mlando njengowandulelayo:
“NgoSepthemba 17, 1987, ngokumenywa yiFrench Women’s Wear Association, ithimba lemboni yezingubo zaseShayina lahlanganyela eParis International Fashion Festival yesibili, lakhetha amamodeli ayisishiyagalombili eqenjini lemibukiso yemfashini laseShanghai, laqasha onobuhle abangu-12 baseFrance ukuthi basungule iqembu laseShayina. ithimba lombukiso wemfashini elizokhombisa uchungechunge olubomvu nolumnyama lwemfashini yaseShayina ngumklami osemusha waseShanghai u-Chen Shanhua." Isiteji somkhosi wemfashini simiswa engadini eceleni kwe-Eiffel Tower eParis nasemaphethelweni e-Seine, lapho umthombo womculo, isihlahla somlilo nezimbali ezisiliva kukhanya ndawonye, njengezwe lezinganekwane. Yifestiveli yemfashini ebabazeka kakhulu eyake yaba khona emhlabeni. Bekukulesi siteji esikhulu samazwe ngamazwe esidlalwa amamodeli angu-980 lapho ithimba elidlala imvunulo laseShayina lazuza khona ukuhlonishwa futhi lahlelwa ngokukhethekile umhleli ukuze kushayelwe ucingo ngekhethini. I-debut yemfashini yaseShayina, ibangele isithakazelo esikhulu, abezindaba basakaze emhlabeni wonke besuka eParis, "uFigaro" waphawula: ingubo ebomvu nemnyama intombazane yaseShayina yaseShayina, bashaya ingubo ende kodwa hhayi iqembu elihle kakhulu laseJalimane. , kodwa futhi ishaye ithimba lokudlala laseJapane eligqoke iziketi ezimfushane. Umhleli uthe: I-China "iyizwe lezindaba elihamba phambili" phakathi kwamazwe angu-18 nezifunda ezibambe iqhaza emkhosini Wemfashini "(Lesi sigaba sicashunwe kuMnu. Tan 'inkulumo)
(2) Wang Xinyuan
Uma ngikhuluma ngokushintshisana ngamasiko, kufanele ngisho u-Wang Xinyuan, ngokungangabazeki ongomunye wabasiki bengqephu abadume kakhulu eShayina ngeminyaka yawo-1980. Lapho u-Pierre Cardin efika e-China ngo-1986 ukuzoshutha, ukuzohlangana nabaklami bemfashini baseShayina, bathatha lesi sithombe, ngakho-ke empeleni saqala ngokuhwebelana ngamasiko.
Ngo-1987, u-Wang Xinyuan waya e-Hong Kong eyobamba iqhaza emqhudelwaneni wesibili we-Hong Kong Youth Fashion Design Competition futhi wawina indondo yesiliva esigabeni sezingubo. Lezi zindaba zazijabulisa ngaleso sikhathi.
Kuhle ukusho ukuthi ngo-2000, u-Wang Xinyuan wakhipha umbukiso ku-Great Wall of China. I-Fendi ayizange ibonakale ku-Great Wall kuze kube ngu-2007.
(3) Wu Haiyan
Ngikhuluma ngalokhu, ngicabanga ukuthi uthisha uWu Haiyan ukufanele kakhulu ukubhala. UNksz Wu Haiyan ubemele abaklami baseShayina phesheya izikhathi eziningi.
Ngo-1995, wabonisa imisebenzi yakhe e-CPD eDusseldorf, eJalimane.
Ngo-1996, wamenywa ukuthi azokhombisa imisebenzi yakhe eTokyo Fashion Week eJapan.
Ngo-1999 wamenywa eParis ukuba abambe iqhaza "eVeki yeSino-French Culture" futhi enze imisebenzi yakhe.
Ngo-2000 wamenywa eNew York ukuba abambe iqhaza "eVeki yeSino-US Cultural" futhi enze imisebenzi yakhe.
Ngo-2003, wamenywa ukuba abonise umsebenzi wakhe efasiteleni le-Gallery Lafaye, inxanxathela yezitolo eParis.
Ngo-2004, wamenywa eParis ukuba abambe iqhaza ku-"Sino-French Cultural Week" futhi wakhulula umbukiso wemfashini othi "Oriental Impression".
Umsebenzi wabo omningi awubukeki uphelelwe yisikhathi namuhla.
Isiteji sesi-2: Izinyathelo ezibalulekile
(1) Xie Feng
Ingqophamlando yokuqala yaphulwa ngo-2006 ngumklami u-Xie Feng.
U-Xie Feng ungumklami wokuqala ovela ezweni laseShayina ukungena evikini lemfashini elithi "Big Four".
Umbukiso wango-2007 waseNtwasahlobo/wasehlobo weParis Fashion Week (eyabanjwa ngo-Okthoba 2006) wakhetha u-Xie Feng njengomsiki wengqephu wokuqala wase-China (ezwenikazi) kanye nomsiki wengqephu wokuqala owavela evikini lemfashini. Lona futhi umsiki wengqephu wokuqala waseShayina (wasezweni) ukumenywa ngokusemthethweni ukuthi azobukisa emasontweni amane amakhulu amazwe ngamazwe (eLondon, eParis, eMilan naseNew York) - yonke imibukiso yemfashini edlule yabasiki bengqephu baseShayina (ezwekazini) baphesheya kwezilwandle igxile kakhulu. ukushintshana kwamasiko. Ukubamba iqhaza kuka-Xie Feng eParis Fashion Week kuphawula ukuqala kokuhlanganiswa kwabasiki bengqephu bamaShayina (ezwekazini) ohlelweni lwebhizinisi lemfashini lamazwe ngamazwe, futhi imikhiqizo yemfashini yaseShayina ayisewona “owokubuka kuphela” imikhiqizo yamasiko, kodwa ingabelana ngesabelo esifanayo ku imakethe yamazwe ngamazwe enemikhiqizo eminingi yamazwe ngamazwe.
(2) UMarco
Okulandelayo, ake ngikwethule uMarco.
UMa Ke ungumsiki wengqephu wokuqala waseShayina (ezwenikazi) ukungenela iParis Haute Couture Fashion Week
Ukudlala kwakhe eParis Haute Couture Week kwakungasesiteji ngokuphelele. Ngokuvamile, uMarco ungumuntu othanda ukusungula izinto ezintsha. Akathandi ukuziphinda noma abanye. Ngakho akazange athathe indlela yendabuko yendiza ngaleso sikhathi, umbukiso wakhe wezingubo wawufana nomdlalo wasesiteji. Futhi amamodeli awabhekayo awawona amamodeli asezingeni eliphezulu, kodwa angabadlali abanekhono kwezemidlalo, njengabadansi.
Isigaba sesithathu: Abaklami baseShayina kancane kancane bathutheleka emasontweni emfashini "Big Four".
Ngemuva kuka-2010, inani labaklami baseShayina (izwekazi) abangena kumaviki emfashini "ama-4 amakhulu" liye landa kancane kancane. Njengoba kunolwazi oluningi olufanele ku-inthanethi ngalesi sikhathi, ngizokhuluma ngomkhiqizo, UMA WANG. Ngicabanga ukuthi ungumklami wamaShayina (ezwekazini) ophumelele kakhulu kwezohwebo emakethe yamazwe ngamazwe. Mayelana nomthelela, kanye nenani langempela lezitolo ezivuliwe nezingenisiwe, usephumelele impela kuze kube manje.
Akungabazeki ukuthi ama-designer amaningi aseShayina azovela emakethe yomhlaba esikhathini esizayo!
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jun-29-2024
